I'm the OP.
I had eliminated the composite stuff because I read a lot of reviews
complaining of mold that would keep coming back, even after repeated
bleaching. I also read about other problems like flaking - for the price,
I'd expect zero maintenance.
Maybe I should reconsider the composite - does anyone know what that
composite is that they use for the beach benches in Florida - seems like if
it'd last there, it'd be OK anywhere.
Mold? No more than any other material. Since there's nothing for mold
to feed on, I'd say less mold. Not that mold on a deck should be an
issue. I guess it depends on the amount of light you get.
Flaking? Never heard of it, and I haven't seen it in the 13 years my
deck has been in place.
Other than cleaning, (if you feel the need), there is no maintenance.
Reminds me, Sandy broke one of my deck boards.
I need to replace one.
Other than breakage, it looks to me like the deck will easily outlast
me and I've still got a few years to go.
I'm considering composite to replace the boards on my deck (they'll
probably go another five years but look ugly). I'm told you can't
pressure wash them and there are issues with sagging. You're happy
with yours? I've never been a fan of PT decking.
On Sun, 05 May 2013 19:17:02 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
I considered it but went with Tiger Wood instead. In fact, I put a
coat of oil on it today to keep it looking good.
Not cheap, but will outlast me even if I live to be 100.
On Sun, 05 May 2013 23:31:03 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
For most, I used the ipe clips that go into the grooves. I had
problems getting some aligned and used the stainless steel screw that
leave a very small hole for the head, barely noticeable.
My deck is 12 x 16 so it used 25 boards. They were oversized an inch
so had to be trimmed. The extra inch was there in case of handling
Trim head screws? Do they hold well enough to keep the boards from
warping? The Kreg system looks pretty good, too, but if the slot is
there, might as well use it. No issues with another surface for water
Inch long, I presume. For the 6" (5-1/2") boards it's a bit over
$4/sq ft., so it really isn't out of range, assuming it really does
last as advertised.
It really does look nice. I made the mistake of sending the link to
On Tue, 07 May 2013 18:36:29 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Been down for a year now. No cupping, warping, or anything else. I
used the screw that came with the clips. If you do go that way, I have
nearly a full box of the kit that I'll sell you very cheap. You need
a torx bit for the screws.
You can drill, countersink, then plug the holes but that seems like
too much work.
The PT deck was over 20 years and was getting ugly. This looks first
class, has nice coloring. If you like the look of wood, it is worth
Good information. No, it'll be at least a couple of years before I
replace the deck. We're talking about expanding it across the back of
the house but it'll have to wait until the house is paid off.
For the few where space is tight, that's an option. I've also seen
fastening systems that come from the bottom. That's a possibility
since the deck is ~10' off the ground (no stairs, which is another
Exactly! Our house was built in '07 so the deck still has a way to go
before it has to be replaced. I like the tigerwood look. If it's not
a huge deal to maintain it looks to me to be the way to go. I'd have
to consider options for the railings, though. White paint would look
nice but it's a PITA to maintain. I suppose the framing is just PT?
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