PT pine shrinkage versus smooth sided cedar?

Several months, perhaps.

Most of the PT we see in these parts is Southern Yellow Pine. It's strength is that it is somewhat resistant to rot already, and if fairly stiff. But it cracks, splinters, cups, and twists to beat the band. It just ain't pretty after a year outside.

My objection to cedar [and redwood] for decking is it's softness. If it is a pool deck that will be mostly trod on with bare feet, then cedar would be fine. Even a deck off the LR that will get light use will probably not suffer too much. But if it is an entranceway, or will enjoy a lot of traffic with shoes and clod hoppers from the garden-- then I'd pass on those 2.

Cedar won't shrink as much and is less likely to split. but it will need annual cleaning, sealing, and occasional sanding.

You might want to look into the composite stuff some more. Last time I looked it was getting down to the price of good cedar-- and takes a whole lot less maintenance.

How long will you be there?

And then there's Ipe, or mahogany. . . .

Jim

I don't have a deck and don't know squat about them, but I know a little about wood.

Wood shrinks as it dries. But, it's important to know that the reason is because it's the wood cell WALLS that get thinner and stiffer as the wood dries. The diameter of the hollow space inside the cells doesn't change; it's just the cell walls getting thinner that results in the wood shrinking.

The heavier and stronger hardwoods are heavier and stronger because they have smaller diameter wood cells, and that means they have more cell walls to add weight, increase strength and shrink as the dries. So, heavier and stronger woods would be expected to shrink more as they dry than lighter and weaker woods.

So, you'd expect less shrinkage from cedar than pine.

Our decking is 5/4" PT southern yellow pine. I bought higher quality wood for less at a local lumber yard. It is about 7 years old and has held up really well

I suspect part of problem is that the wood was cut when wet or not fully dried. You will get differential shrinkage depending on the orientation of the grain so percent shrinkage in width will be different than length and if not all oriented in the same direction you will get warpage.

Guess the best thing to do is buy pt lumber stored indoors that has dried enough to show defects. Don't buy the stuff sitting in the elements outside.

The problem with MOST pressure treated wood is it is FAR from dry. I've had it actually spray water out of it when cutting with a circular say. GUARANTEED to shrink, warp, and split when you nail it down in the sun.

The problem is the chemicals in the PT wood make your wood moisture tester lie though it's teeth

PT is soaking wet when you buy it, takes months to dry. During that time it may turn into a pretzel; well, not quite but it frequently warps a lot. I avoid it whenever I can and I sure wouldn't use it for a deck.

Don't know much about cedar except it is soft. That and that it will stain badly from iron/non-stainless steel fastenings. Same with oak. I wouldn't use cedar for a deck.

Southern yellow pine (not pressure treated SYP) is decent...hard and strong.

Someone mentioned ipe; I've never had occasion to use it but I have a credit card sized one about 3/4" thick on my desk that I use as a paper weight. IOW, hard, strong (VERY) and very durable.

Ipe gets my vote.

"AngryOldWhiteGuy" wrote in message news:km5k7e$oj2$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me...

Deck specialists recommend 3/8" air space between the butt ends of deck boards to speed drying after rain and prevent early rot. Cedar is widely preferred to PTL for deck boards: of course there are distinct types of cedar (white and red to start.) Besides, "PTL" can be any tree type. The OP sees pine, hereabouts we see spruce. All timber should be dried on site (covered from rain, sides open to permit wind through the stack) for as long as possible before use, months if possible. Any deck screw fastens cedar as well as PTL. The critical difference is the driver. Impact drivers do not need pilot holes beforehand.

I'm thinking that pressure treating would add back in moisture but if the wood was dry and warped before treatment, the treatment should not make it warp when dried again. I'm also assuming that you do not pressure treat wet wood.

how many times does the OP want to replace their deck?

Composites appear to last near forever, but cost more:(

However replace your deck now and sell in 8 to years and the buyer will expect its replaced again.

So if you plan on selling within 10 years double the costs:(

Or be prepared that your home will be classified a low cost fixer upper

I just went through two neighbors open houses for sale and made the same observation.

home with worn decks, and anything else elminates 90% of the shoppers....

that leaves 10% possible buyers who will all want a cheap home.

hey if you want to get little for your home go right ahead:)

Right now we are in a strong buyers market. You want your house to be perfect when you sell it.

In a strong sellers market you can get away without fixing stuff up. When my eldest bought his house, it needed repairs but he had to pay list price and the seller had offers above list price but took my sons because there were no contingencies.

I'm the OP.

I had eliminated the composite stuff because I read a lot of reviews complaining of mold that would keep coming back, even after repeated bleaching. I also read about other problems like flaking - for the price, I'd expect zero maintenance.

Maybe I should reconsider the composite - does anyone know what that composite is that they use for the beach benches in Florida - seems like if it'd last there, it'd be OK anywhere.

Suggestions??

Greenheart would be another possibility. Its life can be measured in decades - as can ipe - and centuries.

Info on both...

Mold? No more than any other material. Since there's nothing for mold to feed on, I'd say less mold. Not that mold on a deck should be an issue. I guess it depends on the amount of light you get.

Flaking? Never heard of it, and I haven't seen it in the 13 years my deck has been in place.

Other than cleaning, (if you feel the need), there is no maintenance.

Reminds me, Sandy broke one of my deck boards. I need to replace one.

Other than breakage, it looks to me like the deck will easily outlast me and I've still got a few years to go.

Maybe in Pittsburgh. It certainly seems to be turning here. They're starting to build like crazy. I just counted eight lots sold in our subdivision (of 24, I think). A neighbor just told us that the house being built at the end of the street is going for $400K. I paid $210K a year ago (for a house that sold for $370K in '07).

Sure. I did a lot of work to my AL house last year, including having the inside professionally painted. It "sold" for asking but I had to least it to them for a year until they can get financing.

I'm considering composite to replace the boards on my deck (they'll probably go another five years but look ugly). I'm told you can't pressure wash them and there are issues with sagging. You're happy with yours? I've never been a fan of PT decking.

What brand is it?