Power outage

Hi, First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

I'd suggest next, to remove and replace the breaker several times. On and off the bus bar. I've seen cases where the bus bar gets a bit of corrosion, where the breaker snaps on.

Please let us know what you find.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

I tested the breaker which indicated good. I removed the breaker feed, turned the breaker on and read 120v. Therefore, I assume the problem is elsewhere in the field. I ensured all neutral connections were secured. I reconnected the breaker feed and turned on the breaker and still no power. The good part is, it's designated to one circuit and not the entire house. The bad news is my router and modem are on that circuit, but I am running an extension cord to another outlet.

Any suggestions what the problem could be? My guess is a wire, but uncertain and where.

Thanks

Dear Tony, Dear Tony, Sounds like the entire circuit is not working properly.

Christ> Approximately 3 days ago, I noticed a few quick power bumps whenever I

Hi, First of all, have you removed every thing on the circuit and start plugging in one device at a time to narrow down the problem?

It may be a break at a connection. Do you know what is on that circuit? If it is a series of connections, I'd start at the first one and work along. You may have the wires feeding a receptacle, then they go from that receptacle to another. If the first receptacle went bad or connection came loose, everything down line is out.

Also, are there any GFCI on the line? if so, check that first.

Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle. Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are $0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade" or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but trouble.

came back on.

One more test that I would try is to swap the wires at the suspect breaker with another breaker. The breaker may test good with no load on it but fail once current starts flowing. I recently had intermittent flickering of all the lights on one circuit. I swapped the hots between breakers and the flickering moved to the other circuit. The bad breaker tested good, but obviously wasn't.

Since you are obviously comfortable around the breaker panel, it couldn't hurt to swap a couple of wires.

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one, and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.

Sounds fairly typical of a failing push-wire connection at a receptacle. Best to at a minimum remove each device and change it from push-wire connections to screw terminal connections. If the current devices are $0.50 specials, I'd recommend buying the bulk packs of the "spec grade" or "commercial grade" receptacles that run ~$2 and replace the devices as well, again using the screw terminals or the screw clamp option on some of the better devices. The push-wire connections are nothing but trouble.

I'm uncertain of the outlet and switch grade since they were the originals ones when I bought the house. Though I will be checking each individual connection today.

I'd suggest next, to remove and replace the breaker several times. On and off the bus bar. I've seen cases where the bus bar gets a bit of corrosion, where the breaker snaps on.

Please let us know what you find.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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Will add that to my troubleshooting list.

Thanks

It may be a break at a connection. Do you know what is on that circuit? If it is a series of connections, I'd start at the first one and work along. You may have the wires feeding a receptacle, then they go from that receptacle to another. If the first receptacle went bad or connection came loose, everything down line is out.

Also, are there any GFCI on the line? if so, check that first.

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Years ago, I made a diagram of my home's electrical connections corresponding with it's breaker/circuit. Unfortunately, I am unaware of the flow of the circuits. I plan to check every outlet and switch on that circuit to determine loose or back stabbed connection and repair. There isn't a GFCI on this circuit.

Thanks

One more test that I would try is to swap the wires at the suspect breaker with another breaker. The breaker may test good with no load on it but fail once current starts flowing. I recently had intermittent flickering of all the lights on one circuit. I swapped the hots between breakers and the flickering moved to the other circuit. The bad breaker tested good, but obviously wasn't.

Since you are obviously comfortable around the breaker panel, it couldn't hurt to swap a couple of wires.

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Good idea. I'll add that to the troubleshooting list.

Thanks

OK, you have an open somewhere on that circuit. The first thing I would do, is determine if it's the hot leg or the neutral that's open. The second thing I would do, is determine if all of the outlets on that circuit are dead, when the breaker is on. If some outlets remain live, I would try to determine the wiring sequence and look for the open circuit at the last live outlet in the chain, or the first dead outlet on the chain. Sometimes you can locate the location of the loose connection by plugging in a test light bulb, into one of the dead outlets, then tap on all the other outlets, and switches on that circuit. If you whack one, and it causes the light to flicker, look for your loose connection there. Don't overlook outdoor outlets, that may be on that circuit as well.

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ALL outlets and switches are dead with breaker on. No outside outlets are on this circuit. I like the suggestions. Will add to the list and troubleshoot.

Thanks

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By dead with the breaker on, do you mean that you're reading 120V at the breaker wire and you've at the same time reading that you don't have 120V between either hot and neutral or hot and ground at any of the switches and outlets?

What he said ^^^^

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How many lights and receptacles are on this circuit? What type of rooms are they in?, bedroom, bathroom, hall, etc. When was the house built?

Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. They'll connect the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire. They don't cost any more (

Better yet, get the type with the back wire clamps. They'll connect the same way (so you won't have to restrip and refold the wire in the box) as the "back-stab" outlets you probably already have, but have a screw clamp, rather than a flimsy metal knife-edge to hold the wire. They don't cost any more (

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And with 120V measured on the wire at the breaker, you are not measuring 120V at any of them? No 120V between hot and neutral or hot and ground? If that is the case, either there is another switch or outlet that you aren't aware of, or else there is another junction somewhere in just a box. Or I guess the cable could be broken somewhere, somehow. You can also try to follow the cable, try to figure out how it gets from panel to the switches, etc, but that may or may not be easy.