I got the penetration problem solved , I was loading the gun wrong ... but I have one other question . Every pin I drive comes up with thehead protrudingabout 1/4" from the work . I checked , and the piston stops that same distance short of flush with the muzzle . I looked around a little and it seems they come in different lengths ... but I have no idea what the numbers mean , and haven't a clue which one I need for it to come flush with the muzzle .
Powder actuated tools again ...
Aug 21, 2018
7 Replies
Are you sure the gun isn't just dirty?
Which gun are you using?
To set the driving depth is somewhat experimental; you start with lowest cartridge power and
- Set the tool at lowest setting (1 is low).
- Drive a fastener.
- If doesn't penetrate deep enough, increase power level
Repeat 1 thru 3 until desired depth reached; if max out the power level and still not enough, move up in cartridge (green to yellow, etc., ...) and start over again.
I think you were in block? If so green definitely should provide plenty of "oomph"; poured concrete "not so much".
Yup , damn sure . It was pretty gunked up when I got it , wouldn't even fire . After a conversation with Tim at Hilti customer service we determined that my piston has been modified - it had about 5/16" cut off the tip , likely to use the specialty fasteners that came with it . They're a short pin with a spacer collar of some kind , I have no idea what their use is but they need to be installed with about 5/16" protruding from the work surface . All fixed now , I just TIG welded a short piece of steel to the tip . Used Invar42 , a nickel/iron alloy meant for cast iron and other difficult stuff . I figgered the nickel alloy being pretty ductile would be a good choice . I would have bought a new piston , but the damn things are over 80 bucks by the time you get delivery and taxes added . I only paid a hundred bucks for the gun ! Anyway , it's shooting well now and sinking the pins to just below flush , which is what I was after . F-26 behind the wood and a good clamp load will make this project one that should outlive me - and probably my kids .
It was back in the '70s so, like most things in the '70s, my memory is a little fuzzy, but we were shooting studs with a collar and a threaded portion. The collar would be flush with the threads sticking out about
3/8". We were hanging EMT for a new line and the threads were for the EMT clamps.The original plan was to drill for anchors but after a couple of those I said screw this and sent my gopher down to the rental store for a Hilti.
They damnsure make it a lot easier to attach to concrete - and steel . Just looking at these pins that came with it , I think they might be for attaching maybe brick ties to block walls . Or something else thin , or maybe suspension wires for a drop ceiling . Whatever , I got a shitload of 'em that I ain't never gonna use . But the extension I welded on that piston has got 'em sinking just below flush . I was concerned about mushrooming , but the piston is in contact with the pin , so there's no impact force . If it does , I'll just case-harden it . I thank God 'most every day for a wife that indulges my toolwhoredom . The downside to that is that she expects miracles ... and sometimes she gets one .
Terry Coombs posted for all of us...
I have this too. Unfortunately as I get older and do less and less I can't justify this. I am trying to downsize and it seems I have to go out to buy a screwdriver to do anything...
What pisses me off is when I buy a screwdriver realizing full well I have half a dozen around someplace...
I put a new fuel pump in the F150 two weeks ago. Not more than 15 minutes after I spent twice that rounding up the flare nut wrench, sockets, extensions, and stupid pliers for the hose clamp.
$16 from Amazon and 15 minutes -- try that with a 2018 F150.
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