I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since the filter
has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I figured this
would make it possible to remove stuff later since I could unscrew
things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is, this stinking union
will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've cranked it down
almost to the limits of what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is
it normal to crank the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty
union or something?
My heating and AC boss used to dose unions with WD-40 or
equivilant. So the threads would slip instead of tighten and
Plumber friend of mine used to dose the threads and mating
surface with Rectorseal #5 for sealing effect.
One of t hose two should do it.
I had the same problem with a union on a steam heating system. After
posting here, someone suggested Rectorseal #5 and I bought it and used it.
That solved the problem. It did seem to help lubricate it a little as I
tightened it, and it definitely made the seal.
If it's one of them CheapChinese fittings it's probably the fitting --
I've had nothing but trouble w/ 'em.
If the imperfections are small enough a layer of permatex or similar may
be enough; some of the ones I've had have large enough pitting or other
defects to be clearly visible--there's no hope w/ them.
I went up to my cabin and turned on the water only to find bursts in two
places. Went to Home Depot, and bought something called Shark Bite, IIRC.
It worked. I had to put one compression 90 ball valve in as it was less
than half a Shark Bite 90 valve. We'll see. But the stuff was incredibly
easy to work with.
Metal. Looks like brass with a copper pipe.
Interesting about the lubrication. I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. Thanks.
Most plumbers don't use pipe dope for sweat solder fittings.
They use flux.
I wouldn't use WD and permatex at the same time, they might
not be friends. A dose of Permatex #2 non hardening (the
black messy crap) may do the job. washes off with alcohol
"drygas" when you get it on you. DAMHIKT.
Maybe, but I've been fighting them tight way before the cheap imports
hit these shores., Once I saw the guy changing my deep well pump smear
a little pipe dope on before attempting to assemble the ones in the
well head, I felt silly. I now follow his lead, and have little
trouble with those.
Sounds as though anything 'slippery' helps lubricate the threads so
that the union will put smooth and tight compressive force on the
metal to metal joint of the 'olive' and copper pipe etc.?
Not that we are stuffing up the joint with some sort of sealing
Thinking about one part of the Middle East where 'plumbers' and
repairers tended to put sealing tape on anything with a thread, even
if not required.
The threads, in some cases, were really clogged up with sealing tape
debris in some cases which made tightening a chore!
Mostly, but the well guy put a smear on the mating surfaces too. There
is a little friction there as it mates, and that makes it go together
easily. I no longer get the 36" pipe wrench out when dealing with a
union, but I used to.
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