I've had the best luck using a good jigsaw with a sharp and fairly
aggressive wood cutting blade at moderate speed. I haven't done
anything where I really need the edge to be perfect, but clamping on a
guide gets me a good straight line.
I had a guy at a plastics supplier show me how to get
that smooth, clear edge you see on fabricated plastic
items. He used a propane torch to gently heat the edge
without burning the plastic after sanding it. I learned
to do it on some scrap plastic before I tackled a real
Well, since I can't tell what you did, I don't know what went wrong.
They make dedicated plastic blades, but most carbide blades with not
too many teeth will work. Did you remove the paper? You can also
turn the blade around and run it backwards - not anti-kickback blades,
Hi there! What do you plan to use it for?
I ask because my original 'sunroom' was done with such for the windows. It
was horribly hot in summer and totally unacceptably cold in winter. It also
had major condensation issues which eventually lead to the room rotting out.
Before we had it fixed up to a more proper construction, we couldnt use it 4
months in winter, and 4 months of summer we had to run a window AC 24/7
(even that couldn't keep up so we tended to close it off at least 2 months
of the summertime here). ie; we got 6 months use of the room per year
Norfolk VA area.
It would however be a fine material for a reasonably usable greenhouse.
I've always used a table saw with a really sharp blade for cutting
Plexiglas and Lexan. The blade should not protrude very far above the
table or some splintering may occur. For perfect edges for solvent
gluing a 12 " sanding disc with 3M 220 grit works well, low speeds, of
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