Peeling sheet rock tape

[Rebel1]

Looking for suggestions for sticking the tape flat back against the wall. The corner is a radius corner, not the normal sharp corner. Here's the photo:

Thanks,

R1

[dadiOH]

It wouldn't hurt to try adhesive. If I were going to try it I would use white glue...use something thin like a palette knife or spatula to pry the bead out as far as possible without inducing major cracking, wedge it there with a toothoick or wooden match then use the spatula to work in as much white glue as possible, starting at the top. Once you have as much in as possible, remove the wedge and push the bead in and out to sort of pump the glue around. A considerable amount should come out the crack, just wipe it off with a damp sponge. Finally, put some wax paper over it and arrange something to apply inward pressure...a concrete block with some wood wedges would work; alternatively, run a strip of wide, blue painter's masking tape down the seam but if you do that make sure you have removed all the glue on the exterior.

If the glue doesn't work, you are left with removing the entire bead and applying new. The crack most probably arose because the bead wasn't well fastened with nails or screws in the first place. FWIW, you can get paper backed bullnose bead that is mudded in like seam tape.

If you have to retexture, it is not that big a deal. You may not be able to exactly match what is there but you can come close in various ways...the spray cans are one, a paint roller and thinned drywall mud is another. Feather either out into the existing, prime and paint.

[hrhofmann]

What dadioh says sounds like what I would do.

[trader_4]

He initially said "tape", but later said magnetic. From the photo, it looked like the separation was farther back from the corner than where the edge of a corner bead would be, but it's hard to tell exactly. I'd say it is at the edge of a metal corner bead.

So, I think it comes down to how can you push it back in, uniformly along the length, keep it there while glue sets? He could try leaning something against it, but that seem problematic. If matching paint is available, I think I'd go with a modified version of my previous suggestion. Use small flat head screws. Carefully countersink holes for the heads, then drive the screws in, slightly below the surface. A dab of spackle to just cover the heads, followed by a dab of paint. That with glue inserted behind it should work. It would probably work without the glue too.

[Verga Grande]

Place looks like a pig sty. Why bother with it at all unless you're taking a wrecking ball to the whole place?

[Pfeffernir Cookie]

Hilarious. I built this city on blood and blow

[dadiOH]

Not too small, they need to get into the wood under the corners.

[RobertMacy]

Couldn't save a copy of your photo from that website?!

I have the same construction here, except NO texture and NO baseboarding.

Due to settlement, have 'cracks' form and then continue up, especially on doorways. At least there is NO texturing so I've tried several approaches.

These are metal bullnose flashings placed under the coating. My impression is that the metal is too stiff [not slightly flexible like all the other construcion materials and paper does not like to stick well, unless super thick layers, to the metal so it all sheers off easily.

1. Don't use nails, or screws, the metal can/will deflect locally and you'll have a really huge mess.
2. I've tried flexible DAP tub 'n' tile out of tube to get under there, acts like an adhesive AND provides a flexible surface to fill the crack over with paint. That has been more successful to 'fixing' the problem without major effort, but not as successful as:
3. Rip it out and do it right. (I've switched to plsstic bullnoise from Home Depot and been much happier with ease of installation [I don't even have to fasten the bullnose to the studs, simply let the joint compound and drywall provide a 'floating' support, so to speak], the enhanced stickiness to joint compound [all seems to adhere together], and better flexibility [perhaps because it's floating].) But with texture...

My conclusion is that this failure is so cosmetic, simply use tub 'n' tile, or some type of flexible adhesive, and just keep after it. Each 'fix' is not much work, more like 'touch up' painting.

[Rebel1]

This is the way I went. Used two wood screws, about 1" long. Here's the before (on left) and after (on right).

The photo shows an excess of Spackle now which I'll remove with a damp sponge before priming. I'm not concerned if the texture doesn't match, since the area is small and inconspicuous at the foot of the fridge.

Thanks to all.

R1

[trader_4]

If we knew from the beginning that the texture didn't matter, it would have eliminated all the ideas for working to preserve the texture. If you don't care about texture, then the repair is much simpler.