Looking for suggestions for sticking the tape flat back against the
wall. The corner is a radius corner, not the normal sharp corner. Here's
It wouldn't hurt to try adhesive. If I were going to try it I would use
white glue...use something thin like a palette knife or spatula to pry the
bead out as far as possible without inducing major cracking, wedge it
there with a toothoick or wooden match then use the spatula to work in as
much white glue as possible, starting at the top. Once you have as much
in as possible, remove the wedge and push the bead in and out to sort of
pump the glue around. A considerable amount should come out the crack,
just wipe it off with a damp sponge. Finally, put some wax paper over it
and arrange something to apply inward pressure...a concrete block with
some wood wedges would work; alternatively, run a strip of wide, blue
painter's masking tape down the seam but if you do that make sure you have
removed all the glue on the exterior.
If the glue doesn't work, you are left with removing the entire bead and
applying new. The crack most probably arose because the bead wasn't well
fastened with nails or screws in the first place. FWIW, you can get paper
backed bullnose bead that is mudded in like seam tape.
If you have to retexture, it is not that big a deal. You may not be able
to exactly match what is there but you can come close in various
ways...the spray cans are one, a paint roller and thinned drywall mud is
another. Feather either out into the existing, prime and paint.
On Friday, December 26, 2014 8:20:20 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
He initially said "tape", but later said magnetic. From the photo,
it looked like the separation was farther back from the corner than
where the edge of a corner bead would be, but it's hard to tell exactly.
I'd say it is at the edge of a metal corner bead.
So, I think it comes down to how can you push it back in, uniformly
along the length, keep it there while glue sets? He could try leaning
something against it, but that seem problematic. If matching paint is
available, I think I'd go with a modified version of my previous suggestion.
Use small flat head screws. Carefully countersink holes for the heads,
then drive the screws in, slightly below the surface. A dab of spackle
to just cover the heads, followed by a dab of paint. That with glue
inserted behind it should work. It would probably work without the glue
This is the way I went. Used two wood screws, about 1" long. Here's the
before (on left) and after (on right).
The photo shows an excess of Spackle now which I'll remove with a damp
sponge before priming. I'm not concerned if the texture doesn't match,
since the area is small and inconspicuous at the foot of the fridge.
Thanks to all.
On Monday, December 29, 2014 11:35:16 PM UTC-5, Rebel1 wrote:
If we knew from the beginning that the texture didn't matter,
it would have eliminated all the ideas for working to preserve the
texture. If you don't care about texture, then the repair is
Couldn't save a copy of your photo from that website?!
I have the same construction here, except NO texture and NO baseboarding.
Due to settlement, have 'cracks' form and then continue up, especially on
doorways. At least there is NO texturing so I've tried several approaches.
These are metal bullnose flashings placed under the coating. My impression
is that the metal is too stiff [not slightly flexible like all the other
construcion materials and paper does not like to stick well, unless super
thick layers, to the metal so it all sheers off easily.
1. Don't use nails, or screws, the metal can/will deflect locally and
you'll have a really huge mess.
2. I've tried flexible DAP tub 'n' tile out of tube to get under there,
acts like an adhesive AND provides a flexible surface to fill the crack
over with paint. That has been more successful to 'fixing' the problem
without major effort, but not as successful as:
3. Rip it out and do it right. (I've switched to plsstic bullnoise from
Home Depot and been much happier with ease of installation [I don't even
have to fasten the bullnose to the studs, simply let the joint compound
and drywall provide a 'floating' support, so to speak], the enhanced
stickiness to joint compound [all seems to adhere together], and better
flexibility [perhaps because it's floating].) But with texture...
My conclusion is that this failure is so cosmetic, simply use tub 'n'
tile, or some type of flexible adhesive, and just keep after it. Each
'fix' is not much work, more like 'touch up' painting.
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