If it is a simple wire, can it show a false code? Sounds reasonable to me.
Maybe that's the problem right there.
I don't understand that, there is a load at speed.
Took to mech who says the code came up to replace the knock sensor. Replacing that is major. I think I have a bad plug wire.
I doubt it. These cars have a code for identifying misfire on any cylinder and if you had a bad wire, plug or coil that is the code you would be getting. Not sure why replacing a knock sensor is so major, unless a lot of something is in the way. Also seems unlikely that a knock sensor would cause stalling.
Thanks t4. It is major. Need to remove manifold. There is some serious shit that goes along with that removal. There is no way to get to it. I am starting to hate my Nissans. Had to jump my Juke just to follow me to the shop. New 118 buck battery in the Juke so I can go to work Monday. Took the X on Friday, no word on estimate yet. I really think it is cyl number5, not a knock sensor. I will convey my thoughts one last time tomorrow.
T4 and X..one on gas and one on brake is needed to keep rpm above stalling. Driving above 20 mph seems fine. I need to keep rpm up at a stop so i gas it too. Driveway looking shakes the open hood and stalls. Add ac and it stalls quicker. Put it in drive stalls instant unless I give it bigger rpm. 2000 at red light keeps it going.
And the only code showing is a knock sensor problem? Maybe pull the idle air control valve and inspect and clean it?
They changed it up. Again. Next was fuel delivery. That is fine. Now they are guessing crank sensor but their computer will not recognize an xterra. 350 bucks, work or not. I said go for it. I keep believing in myself that it is plug wire number 5. If I pay 350 and it does not work I am off to buying new wires. The wires on it are about a month old from same place. I will put them on in their lot and have some words if that fixes it. They checked it 3 times. No misfire codes and pulled it to check with a meter. The wire does not 'snap' on or off like the others. To me it seems loose ish.
5 days and my titanium leg is wearing out.
A bad wire won't trip a knock sensor code. A loose heat sheild on a manifold has been known to do it though. Or a "floating" camshaft. - Anything that will create a 5-15 khz "signature" of sufficient amplitude to excite the sensor.
Replace the ignition cables and see what happens. My old Voyager was throwing all kinds of codes. I replaced the ignition cables and all was well. I suspect that noise from arcing cables caused the codes.
Got it back not fixed. Paid 230 for crank sensor and fuel filter. They suggest dealer because nissan does not share theif own codes. Tomorrow is new wires even though they are 4 weeks old. DYI. I will also replace cap and rotor. They too are new. I will also fuel up new gas, i am at 1/4. When i got it home i tried to stall it. Easy. Turned on ac in drive in my driveway. It stalled in 5 sec and i got a big puff of smoke from under the hood. I thought it even came through my ac vents. No smell, sweet or other. The hood was closed so i did not see what happened. It did restart.
This is fuel injection? Has an idle air control Valve? If so, has it been checked/cleaned? And the only code showing is for a bad knock sensor? To have it running that poorly and no other codes seems odd.
The puff of "smoke" was the engine trying to run backwards after the stall - just like on a carbureted engine - "back-run" pushing exhaust out the intake and sucking from the exhaust pipe. Like when an engine "deisels" on shutoff with a carb when shut off with the idle too high
I dug this up for you. It explains why a LOT of rather decent looking Nissans ended up in the scrapyards over the last 10 years - The damned things wouldn't pass smog and most mechanics, like yoursm could not solve the problem and the owners were not willing to throw the dice on taking it to a (often terrible) dealer service department.
Aftermarket knock sensors are available for about ten bucks US ,
********** Unfortunately, it's a common occurrence for a Nissan knock sensor code to set on some of the automakers most popular engines and model automobiles.Although 10 different knock sensor codes can set from P0325 through P0334 the most common code you'll find is the P0328. The code stands for knock sensor bank one sensor one circuit input high. Many would like to ignore this code, but ultimately it can stop you from passing state inspection.
Besides that, the knock sensor is really an important sensor for getting the maximum power and fuel economy out of your engine. When the sensor malfunctions, two common complaints become a noticeable lack of performance and a major decrease in miles per gallon.
One of the things that shock me is the far-reaching number of automobiles affected by this Nissan knock sensor code. Any vehicle carrying the 3 L V-6 engines from 1990 through 1999 will eventually need this repair. The Nissan Pathfinder and the Maxima are two automobiles that fit into this category. In addition, some four-cylinder models carrying the 2.0 L I4 experience these problems. Popular models like the Sentra, Nissan
240SX and Nissan Altima from 1993 through 2001 make this list. Even some of the new models with the trusted 2.4 L like the Nissan Frontier pickup and the Quest minivan arent exempt from setting a Nissan knock sensor code.In this article will explain why it's worth your time to address the problem. Although I prefer to repair these vehicles the right way by removing the intake manifold and replacing the failed knock sensor theres an alternative. Plus, you'll find relocation kits, technical tips and replacement parts that help you get the job done.
Maybe it's not a failed knock sensor? I'm a big believer in verifying failed components. Testing the knock sensor isnt too difficult. With the key on, engine off you can back probe the eight pin connector on the passenger side valve cover of a V-6 engine and find a reference voltage in the 4 V range. The wire is the largest diameter white wire in the eight terminal connector. You can get a screwdriver and tap on the block and look for changes in the voltage to verify that the knock sensor is working properly. However, when faced with a Nissan knock sensor code in the P0325 through P0334 range I have never found anything besides a failed sensor. In fact, in many cases I find the sensor broken or cracked. For this reason I don't even bother testing them anymore, because I've never seen anything else go wrong in the circuit.
Nissan uses the same knock sensor on the V-6 engines and the two varieties of four-cylinder engines mentioned here. Surprisingly even the four-cylinder repair procedure isn't that easy, because of the buried location of the part. On the 2 L and 2.4 L engines, they install the knock sensor on the block in between the firewall and the engine. It leaves little room for hands and tools. Since the location is low the easiest way to get to it is to raise the car and approach it from the bottom. Using a 12 mm stubby box end wrench seems like the best strategy to remove the bolt.
Nevertheless, access is limited in this location. However, if theres any good news to share it's this 12 mm bolt is not tightened down very hard and comes loose easily. In fact, after you crack the bolt loose you can spin it out with your fingertips.
Replacing this same knock sensor part on the 3 L and 3.3 L Nissan V-6 engines is a whole different animal. They mount the knock sensor in the lifter valley of the block on these engines. The Chevrolet V8 knock sensors are in the same place and also fail. The only way to get at it is to remove the plenum and the intake manifold. We consider this a difficult repair even for experienced technicians. In the next section well talk about using a relocation kit to avoid having to pull the engine apart
Even though replacing the part on the four-cylinder engine isnt easy it's the best option on the four-cylinder engines. However, on the V-6 models you do have an option of relocating the sensor to avoid having to pull the engine apart.
What you do is relocate the knock sensor to one of the plenum bolts. When you do this, you cut the original harness and splice in a replacement pigtail that attaches to the new location. Heres the reason I don't like it. The knock sensor doesn't pull in a strong input like it does when it's attached to the engine block.
To me the knock sensor remains a very important component. It allows the engine control module to provide maximum ignition timing advance until it hears an engine ping. When detected it then slightly backs off the timing. Changing the design and how the circuit operates doesn't seem like a good idea to me. With that said, I have seen people go through the relocation procedure and I haven't heard of any problems yet.
I don't blame you for wanting to take the easy route. And maybe this is the right thing for your situation. For one thing, these old rides are getting towards the end of their life span. People just want them to pass state emissions inspection without dumping a lot of money into a car that won't last much longer. If you fall in this category than the choice seems clear.
Thanks again. AAA just put it on a flatbed going to Nissan. I will post back in a week or so with the results.
I am proud. I deleted a 5 paragraph response you would pay me to see.
Todays call...-we will call you tomorrow" Isaid...i bought the last 3 new nissans from you, show some teamwork.
Update at 11...
I went to the local pic-a-part to get a bumper skin for a friend's Matrix. About 1200 cars - 3 matrix - one bumper. ROWS of Nissans and Misubishis and Mazdas - about a half dozen Toyotas
- and Toyota outsells the other 3 handilly (combined) Even had 2 TR7s!!! Hardly ANY of the vehicles had serious(if any) collision damage. They were there because they were not worth fixing or putting back on the road. (Car Heaven and KidneyCar provides the bulk of the stock)
Interesting.
I allawys figured the reason I see no xterras nor Nissans in general for sale is because they were on the road. Wrong I guess.
No call yesterday other than me calling them but they had no update. Called just now. They think it is the distributor. I said to stop guessing and I will not pay for a bad guess.
489 bucks after removing Monday's bad guess of 150 ish. They need to order it and it might take a few days. I could order from Amazon and have it there tomorrow. This dealer is stressing me to the max. I keep harping about plug wire number 5. The cmputer would tell us. I have no faith. Just do what I suggest. Pull wire and plug number 5.I just called again and insisted they manually pull number 5. Plug, wire and a look at inside rotor. I cannot get 5 out of my head. They agreed. I said it would make us even for the no call.
Sounds about right for the Dealers repair now.
Several years ago my Camry with about 120,000 miles on it started to run bad. I change the simple inexpensive things like the plugs, fuel filter, disribiter and plug wires. The Autozone trouble shooting page mentione a sensor , but it was around $ 500. I thought before I replaced that I would take it to a dealer. It took them about 3 weeks to find the problem which was that sensor. I would have thought they could test things like the sensor, but not thease clowns.
Sofar out of 4 Camrys that is the only one that I have had to have any work done on outside of book maintence and wear out parts like the brakes or light bulbs.
A bad distributor will NOT cause a knock sensor error. On a Nissan pf that vintage the knock sensor failure is SO common it is the FIRST thing ANY shop, particularly a Nissan Dealer, should be addressing. It is a NASTY job - no way of sugarcoating it - but a knocksensor relocate kit IS available which avoids having to tear half the engine apart to get at the defective one. Relocated sensor looses a bit of sensitivity but saves about $600 on a six - likey over $200 on a four.
Comparing Toyota electronics to Nissan electronics is like comparing turkeys to canaries - and you KNOW which one's the turkey - - - -
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