2004 xterra woes

Overheating. Had fan clutch and thermostat replaced. Mech said waterpump is fine. Had a cumbustion test done, heads are good. No visible leaks. Just ran it for 45 min and a 5 run. Heat on full blast. It is 90 here. Turned on ac and the heat gauge went up to holy shit, shut it down. Turned heat on b4 shutdown and gauge went back down. I think pump is bad. Thoughts? 2004 se with 60,000 miles. Trying to sell but will not give the next guy a headache.

Reply to
Thomas
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Hose partially collapsed?

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

On what basis did the mechanic say the pump is fine? If he took it out and looked at it and the impeller is intact, etc, then it can't be the pump. If he said it's fine without doing that, then it's still possible it's the pump. But pumps usually fail via the seal leaking, not the impeller disappearing, but the latter has been known to happen. Also possible, but not likely, that the new thermostat is bad. And like Dean said, a collapsing hose is a possibility too, as is a plugged radiator.

Reply to
trader_4

Hoses new and good. There is no way the mech took off the pump to look. I am betting worn blades.

Reply to
Thomas

How much for a pump inxtalled? 300? 800? 2004 xterra with 60 for sale. Not a stain inside. Look marketplace facebook. I do not have an account. My wife posted it.

Reply to
Thomas

I have a hard time believing a water pump is bad after only 60,000 miles on a modern vehicle. How about the radiator cap? Maybe flushing the radiator would be a good step before replacing anything. A search turned up a few people who had a transmission fluid/coolant leak in the radiator.

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Reply to
Dean Hoffman

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

Pressure test done. Called it a cumbustion test. ?

Reply to
Thomas Argo

No. Different tests. A radiator pressure test:

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A compression test.
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A combustion leak test.
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I've never had to do these tests so I just know they exist.

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

Especially this kind of failure, which would be the impeller would have to have fallen apart or be slipping. Leaking is the common failure and like you say, 60K is unusual even for that.

Another possibility, is he sure it's really overheating, that the temp sending unit isn't faulty?

Reply to
trader_4

Definately overheating. Lost most coolant thru overflow, sprayed over engine. Major bucking so shut it down. Towed to shop. Replaced thermostat and fan clutch. Not good enough. My bad comment...had both pressure test and cumbustion test. Both good. I have 3 nissans with issues and easily forget which had what.

Reply to
Thomas

I haven't followed this thread from the start - - sorry if I'm repeating. Have you scoured the Xterra forums ? Sometimes these things are endemic and well known - - to the _Nissan_ people - .. maybe not so much to your local garage guy ... Good luck.

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John T.

Reply to
hubops

Does it overheat at speed on the road with AC off? If not, does it get hot as soon as you slow down? If you run it with the cap off, from cold, do you see circulation through the rad when it starts to warm up?

Does the top hose get warm first? Does the rad get hot before the heat guage shows over normal? Does it have an electric fan that is supposed to run when the AC is on?

Get me the answers and I will be able to give you a better diagnosis but I'm suspecting a blocked / restricted rad - either on the air or water side - but then again , it IS a NISSAN - - -

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Here is my test. Time. O4.55 cap off

4.59 no motion 5.02 gauge cool no motion, all belts spinning and fan. I can smell anti but i am burning old spray off i suspect. 5.05 pm. Gauge normal at 1 third up from cold. This is all parked at about 950 rpm. Gauge half up and movement without cap. Top hose hotter than rad. 5.07 cap back on. Fluid was close to top of rad. Gauge half way. 5.08 turned heat on. Gauge less than half. 5.10. Rampped rpm to 3000, no change. 5.12 turned heat off 5.14 heat off 2500 plus for a bit gauge still below half. 5.20 rad and hose both hot. 2 second grab at best. Gauge less than half. 5.21 ac on. Still normal. Upped rpm to 2500 and gauge going down slightly. 5.25 ac on 950 rpm gauge going up quick 3000 rpm gauge going up quicker to 3 quarter. Ac off at 3000 getting hotter. Let off gas still hot. Temp dropping with ac off and heat on at 950 rpm. That is where i am at.
Reply to
Thomas Argo

How about on the road at 50MPH, ac off and ac on???

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Raining like we need it, 50 test in am, rain or not. Thanks for sticking with me.

Reply to
Thomas

3 nissans lol. Putting new mass air flow sensor in murano in am 110,000. Just arrived from partsgeeks. Cataclean in 2012 juke. Hoping for some relief. 60,500 miles same as 2004 xterra.

Going broke quick. For sale. Any one. Insurance passed mortgage per month.

Reply to
Thomas

Auxiliary fan? Is it coming on when the temp goes above mid-point?

Reply to
trader_4

Auxailary fan? I think i have one fan. Should i look? Where would it be? Next to or behind big fan? Going to look now...

Reply to
Thomas

Clare, did the drive it like I stole it. I could not get needle above half, ac, heat or all off. My for sale sign blew off and the check ingine light came on. No overheating. Did that drive and park for 30 minutes or better. Outside temp is 50 if it could play a part. Overheating in the past took place at 90. Unrelated, Did mass flow air sensor on murano and cataclean on juke earlier. Drove the juke like i stole it and had drivers passing me off. I was at 100. In the rain. Scary drivers here in Pa.

Going to start the x and let it run where it sits. It is 2.12 my time. Will report back in an hour. I have about 5 gal gas in it.

Reply to
Thomas

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