OT: clamp ID / availability

[Smitty Two]

I made a little fixture recently to make a production job easier, but in order to use it I need to clamp it to a table. I can't leave it permanently affixed as I only need to use it for a few hours once per week.

I can't use typical C-clamps because they would interfere with the operation of the thing. So, I'm envisioning a couple of these things,

permanently screwed onto the bottom of the tooling plate. Seems like they'd be available off-the-shelf, but you know how it is when you go searching for stuff. If you don't know the terminology, it's tough. So does this type of clamp have a name? McMaster has about 9 million different categories of clamps listed, and I ran through them to the extent of my patience.

Sure I could roll my own, but I hate making stuff when I could just go out and buy it. Any leads appreciated ...

[Vic Smith]

Plug "table clamps" into google. Usually made for a specific fixture. Only one I have around here is for the round fluorescent magnifier on an articulated arm I sometimes use for close work. But it's cast with a hole for the arm base.

--Vic

[Larry W]

I can't tell the size of the clamp you need, but the configuration is very similar to a conduit clamp, used to hang pipe or conduit from overhead I-beams or trusses.

[DD_BobK]

Not as nice as your model but might do the trick.

The hole might be a problem

cheers Bob

[DD_BobK]

if this is made of cast alumimum or zinc, you could saw cut off the part you dont need & go from there.

If it's cast iron or steel you could still cut away the unnecessary part.

cheers Bob

[DD_BobK]

[aemeijers]

Beat me to it- that sure looks like a beam clamp. Various sizes and flavors available at most electrical supply houses. Note well that the ones for conduit are usually intended for static loads, though, not pounding or vibrations.

How mad will somebody get if you put 3-4 holes in the work table? Bolts and wingnuts over big washers on the bottom side come to mind....

Pictures of the fixture and the work table would be useful.

[Joe]

Go to

for some of the finest clamps on the market. Check Amazon for similar, too. for more industrial, machinist oriented.

Joe

Joe

[RicodJour]

R

[Vic Smith]

I don't know what you're clamping down, or what tools you have, but I'd probably make my own up from bar stock how thick you want. Then you get exactly what you want. Even without a press the bends can be done in a vice by heating first. Cut a piece of hardwood square as a fixture to do the second bend. Drill and tap your holes first because heating will probably harden the metal when you quench it, which you should do. But I'm not sure, since I forgot my heat treating. Got a Rockwell tester?

Depending on how much clamping force you need, the big weakness of typical screw clamps is the swivel - it only grabs a small area. That damn magnifying lamp is hell to get secure on a table. The force applied by moving the arm wants to break it loose unless you really crank it down hard.

If I wanted to get a real secure bite with the kind of lockdown you

*might* be wanting, I'd drill for 2 screws/bolts, and also cut to size a piece of bar stock to slip on top of the screws, and the screws would push that against the table underside. You could glue a piece of sandpaper or emory cloth on the clamping surfaces too, or dimple them.. That's probably what I should do with my magnifier clamp. Glue on some sandpaper. I'm using it on slick finished tables. Don't care if they get marred a bit where I clamp it on. Thanks. I think you solved my problem.

--Vic

[DerbyDad03]

re: "That damn magnifying lamp is hell to get secure on a table."

I tossed the clamp and drilled a hole in the top of my workbench along the back edge.

The post that used to go into the clamp is shoved into the undersized hole to hold the lamp up.

I swing it out from the back wall when I need it and give it push back when I'm done.

My lamp has a hinged cover over the lens to keep the dust off of it. I've found that it only works if I actually remember to close it. ;-)

[DD_BobK]

I'd be guessing but I'm thinking the grip depth is about 7/8" or 1" which would make the "top surface" ~2.5" or so?

this one gives some dims in the spec tab

1.5" wide x 3 " long with a nice rectangular mounting surface