On 11/7/14, 9:43 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I believe WD-40 used to be Stoddard Solvent, mostly. Maybe they changed
the formula, or maybe the now describe Stoddard Solvent with a list of
I've got a couple of 4-ounce squeeze cans of Lock-Ease. I've probably
had them since the 1960s. They say "Protects against sticking — rust -
Because I've rarely had lock trouble, when it happens, I don't stop to
remember those cans.
One day at a gas station, it took several tries to turn my ignition
lock. I figured a tumbler was sticky, from lubricant or dirt. I
figured a shot of contact cleaner would flush out dirt and lubricant.
I began having trouble with my trunk lock. If one day I couldn't get it
to work, I figured I'd have a problem because the cable for the remote
release is broken. I removed the lock and couldn't get it to work
consistently with contact cleaner. I figured it had corrosion. WD-40
fixed it. I had the same experience with my gas-door lock.
Based on your recommendation, I think I'll pop those locks off and add a
shot of Lock-Ease. I think I'll leave the ignition lock alone. For one
thing, I don't know if it has tumblers on top. If it does, I don't know
how my Lock-Ease would get them because I can't remove the lock to turn
My car has had trouble with the ignition-switch contacts as long as I
can remember. I couldn't remove the switch to see the contacts. Many
years ago, the key would sometimes to get quite warm; so I knew there
was resistance in the ON contacts. A shot of contact cleaner fixed it.
It would sometimes take more than one try to energize the starter
solenoid. Contact cleaner would fix it temporarily. I hesitated to
squirt WD-40 into a switch I couldn't remove in case it went wrong.
Last year, I finally took the chance. It worked. No trouble since.
Well, we do see some badly corroded locks occaisionally. Last year I
replaced the latch assemblies on my 18 year old pickup truck cap when
I could not free the locks up any more.. They face slightly up, so
water and dirt can run into them.
On Fri, 07 Nov 2014 08:09:48 -0500, Stormin Mormon
My 1950 Oldsmobile came with rubber covers, that snapped on, that
covered the button in the door handle with the key hole.
They were in perfect condition when I got the car in 1965, probably
because my cousin never used them.
On Sat, 08 Nov 2014 07:22:00 -0500, Stormin Mormon
I have used MMO for stubborn locks.
I have also used the DuraLube zip oil - to get them working. For use
out in the cold - like the padlocks on the storage container and locks
on the hangar gates I wash all the oil out with brake cleaner and
shoot in the LockEase (after making sure they are working smoothly
while oiled) A rubber flap over the lock to keep water out goes a long
way towards keeping padlocks working in the winter. Keyed knobs that
are used infrequently can be weatherproofed with an old rubber glove
stretched over them.
Mixtures of different lubricants quite often cause problems with
gelling or forming solid "gunk". WD 40 ALWAYS ends up going sticky -
and so does a lot of 3 in 1 oil.
Yes. I worked in the automotive service business for half my life, and
sticking locks were always an issue. I always had a bottle of
Lock-ease in my tool box, and usually another in my glove compartment
to look after locks when I wasn't at the shop.
That was one of the many services I as a service manager offered
without writing out a workorder, which drove the dealer principal
nuts. He thought I should charge for everything - he reluctantly
agreed when I showed him a workorder, from printing, through writing
up, through to final processing cost him twenty five bucks, so even a
fifteen dollar work order was costing him ten bucks.
I've got to rig one of those. Those 'weatherproof' locks from the hardware
store with the plastic overcase mostly seem to retain any water. I've
learned to keep the propane torch in the house so I can thaw out the shed
lock to get to whatever else I need.
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