My door lock has become difficult to unlock. Don't know why -- I sprayed it with WD-40 and it seemed to help but then a few days later it started again. I don't want to have to change the lock if I can help it. Anybody know what to do? Thanks.
Dottie wrote in news:00434d84-5f4e-4c4a-a3bc- snipped-for-privacy@1g2000yqv.googlegroups.com:
Dottie,
I don't ever use WD-40 on locks. The residue is greasy and attracts too much dirt and gunk. I always use the silicone sprays for locks and hinges. It goes on wet but dries leaving a very slippery film.
Good Luck, Steve
Can you tell us more about the lock? Does it take more force to turn the key that it used to? What kind of lock is it? Double bolt, doorknob lock, etc. Is this an original key or a lubricant? Is this a new lock or an old one? When my front door lock gets "hinky" it's usually because the bolt and striker start to bind. The house is old and settling and the alignment between the door and frame has drifted.
Steve's right about WD-40. It may give some temporary relief but it's likely to just add to the problem in the long run. I'd still be looking for friction sources. A bad duplicate (and even good ones) can wear down enough through use to become "sticky." I alway try to preserve the original key on a keyring of originals I keep in the FireKing and use only duplicates for daily use. That way, if a key gets lost, it's a dupe and I can have a new dupe cut from the original master key. If you have another copy of the key that's not in daily use, compare the two to see if there's been any serious wear (or if the dupe wasn't cut well to begin with - a very common problem).
-- Bobby G.
Get some "lock eze" - it is made specifically for locks and contains colloidal graphite. WD 40 and locks are NOT a good combination.
Bullshit as usual!
I use WD-40 in all my locks.
Dottie, several questions.
Trouble with the key or trouble with the knob?
If it is the key: If you would be comfortable taking the lock out, I would spray plenty of WD40 or similar to wash the keyway and pins trying to get as much dirt and crud out as possible. If you have an air duster, I would blow out as much of the dirt and WD40 as possible. Give the keyway a few quick puffs of graphite. If this doesn't fix it, it is time for a fresh lock or a repin at a lock shop.
If it is the knob: Again, you need to take the lock out of the door. Look over the parts that turn. It may have a build up of old grease caked up with dirt and actually hard. Wipe everything off clean. Apply a light coat of grease on all the moving parts. Vaseline if you don't have grease.
If this is a deadbolt type lock, try locking and unlocking with the door open. Sometimes deadbolts bind against the striker plate.
Not sure you want colloidal, wiki defining it as, "colloidal graphite (a permanent suspension in a liquid)". I can see where the "liquid" may become a problem. I got a graphite pwdr in an evaporating liquid suspension for my door locks on my Toyota p/u, where temps get 20-30 deg below zero F. Don't want no liquid turning to ice. Squirt it in, carrier evaporates, jes graphite pwdr remains. I used it 2 yrs ago and haven't needed a reapplication, yet. Yer local NAPA auto parts store has it.
nb
WD-40 is a solvent rather than a lubricant, thus fairly good at dissolving or washing off random gunge that clogs lock mechanisms (e.g. from tobacco smoke). The Pella Windows company recommends it for window mechanisms (to remove atmospheric gunge.)
As RG listed, sticking locks can have various causes (from damage to wards to a doorframe's shifting) so a persistent one should be diagnosed specifically.
I also like silicone spray. Sounds like you're not mechanically minded. Do you have a friend or relative who might help out?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
I despise that product. Dries out, gets gummy, then it's hard to unlock or lock the lock.
Christ> Get some "lock eze" - it is made specifically for locks and contains
Too bad it's worthless for displacing Mormon trolls.
nb
Yes, I was going to suggest that she check the *door*. It could be sagging or out of alignment. Trying to unlock the lock with the door wide open should help determine whether the door is actually responsible.
-- Steven L.
I agree mostly with others except it's okay to use WD-40 on common door locks. Heck I've seen at least 2 locksmiths use it. Yes, it can leave a film that can collect dirt but I've used it over and over on a lot of common door locks without a problem ever. Now whether there is anything better, dunno.
...or NutjoB morons.
Many of our local door companies do not recommend WD40 because of the very reason as stated by Steve
WD-40 has become a brand name and there are now multiple formulations, some are suitable for lock lubrication.
The colloidal graphite lock lubes are suspended in a fairly volatile hydrocarbon carrier that evaporates after distributing the graphite and disolving old oily lubricants in the lock. I was first exposed to the stuff in dealing with sticky TOYOTA locks by a local locksmith while I was service manager at a TOYOTA dealership. He claimed it was the only effective method he had come across that did not require removal and dissassembly of the lock.
Different experiences. I've been using it for over 30 years with excellent results.
But if, as she reported, WD40 actually helped for a short time it is relatively certain it IS a lock problem - not a door problem.
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