Sorry for the OT post- but got no response in the car NGs.
I need to replace the battery in a 2010 Honda CR-V but don't have one of
those electronics "settings keepers".
I don't mind re-entering the radio code and station presets-- but will
anything else (ECM, etc.) get wiped out- or damaged- if I just
disconnect the old battery?
Following Youth and Middle Age, I've entered the third stage of life:
"Gee, you look great!"
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:20:41 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:
Nothing of any significance has been lost on any cars I've owned.
Station presets are even there. Might have to re-enter the date,
and time. Some cars did have a radio theft
code that you had to re-enter, but I think that was mostly on
aftermarket radios. Damaged? That won't happen. Cars wind
up with dead batteries or batteries removed all the time.
You can buy one of those temp battery gizmos at any auto parts store
for a few bucks. Or Ebay for probably less. Many auto parts stores
install batteries for free too and they almost certainly have/use
I hit both the local NAPA and Advance Auto Parts stores looking for one.
I got a blank stare at NAPA.The Advance guy showed me some fancy black
box gizmo that connected to the OBD port that they used when they
replaced batteries- but they had nothing for sale.
I was thinking of maybe jerry-rigging/attaching a 9 volt transistor
battery to the car's battery cables before removing-- but I may just go
ahead and pull it.
The press wants every person running for president to be for everything
and to stand for nothing. Just how they roll...
Two options come to mind. 9v battery hooked to a
lighter cord, and put in the lighter socket.
Other option is if you know someone like me who
has a battery jumper pack, and a double ended
lighter cord (which I use for recharging the
jump pack), that can be plugged in via the
lighter socket in your vehicle.
Yes, I saw one of these for sale, probably at jcwhitney.com but I made
my own and put it in the trunk. I never use it though!
My cars have been a 2000 Toyota, 1995 and 1988 Chrysler, and because
of excessive battery drain, in each of them!, I've had an almost dead
battery probably 60 times in the last 20 years, and because I use a
device that disconnects the battery when it's almost dead, from the
car's pov, the battery is dead, disconnected. After I push the
button that reconnects the battery, I reset the radio.
All the driving information that adjusts your ignition is wiped out
and it goes to defaults, but I've never noticed any difference except
it takes two tries, one right after the other, to start the car after
the battery is disconnected. But it always started right up on the
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 11:44:48 AM UTC-5, Micky wrote:
What I meant was that it would seem a better idea for the device to
disconnect the battery so that it doesn't start to go dead to begin with.
What's the point to disconnecting it when it's almost dead? You're
hoping there is enough energy left to start the car? Each time you
do that deep draining, it significantly shortens the life of the battery.
I pay attention and I don't know of anything that does that.
There always has been. The Battery Buddy, no longer made, worked 60
times, probably more than 60 times, and the car always started just
Priority Start has only needed to work once, and the car started just
fine. It's still sold, and mostly marketed to companies with trucks.
In one way yes, but since I've had those devices, I"ve actually been
to go 3 years and counting with a battery I would consider no good.
One of them seemed to improve with time.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:53:16 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:
Don't know if that link works, but you can probably find it by
searching for the name at Adv Auto.
The 9V battery, using some jumpers idea should work too
A 9volt battery wont do shit. You could probably put some leads on a 12V
garden tractor battery and plug it into your cig lighter socket, but why
go thru that hassle. Just change your battery and reset your clock. The
TIME/DATE is about all you'll lose. I never saw radio resets getting
lost, and your cars computer will not be affected.
There is a good chance you car's clock needs to be reset anyhow. I know
mine seems to lose several minutes during extreme cold weather. (And I
have a very good battery). Dont forget next weekend we go to "Daylight
Savings Time", so you'll have to reset your clock anyhow.
By the way, your cellphone has the most accurate time. Use it to set
your car's clock.
Yea, the "Auto" newsgroups are all of dead.... But I dont think anyone
objects to auto related posts on this group. Us backyard mechanics are
doing "home repair", just doing in on the car rather than the house.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 5:48:10 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Why would that be? With the car off, the drain is very small.
IDK what it is for all cars, but BMW X5 for example, it's about 30ma.
It has to be low or your car would go dead in a airport lot or
similar when it hasn't been driven.
Plus there are devices on the market for exactly that purpose, they
use a 9V battery or similar to provide power while the car battery
is changed. I provided a link to one.
I agree that's a typical case and it's been my experience too.
But we don't know about all cars or what aftermarket equipment
people have. Some radios had security codes which could be lost when
power is interrupted.
On 3/2/2016 4:07 PM, email@example.com wrote:
The (CMOS) volatile memory used in most electronic devices will
gladly hold data down to 2V -- or even less. (modern CPU's
*operate* at these voltage levels!)
But, there may be other circuitry that watches for a "low battery
level" and deliberately NOTICES this and DISCARDS the contents of
the memory -- because ~8V is about as low as you'd expect a car
battery to go for any length of time (short durations like cranking
the battery can fall and "local support" -- capacitors -- can keep
the voltage up for the various control electronics).
You can't argue with the fact mechanics use them all the time. Some
guys use a "lantern battery" instead of the 9 volt (only 6 volts but a
lot "stiffer" and some use a 12 volt "booster pack" ballasted with an
1157 bulb so if the battery + cable touches ground it doesn't fry
You DO need to leave the doors closed and disconnect the underhood
light if so equipped., particularly if using the 9 volt unit.
The same principal can be used to make the 9 volt battery safe too -
a resistance to limit the current drawn from or pumped into the 9 volt
battery CAN be used instead of a diode - the real "cheap-assed" units
available for the cost of the battery alone could well be using a
resistor instead of a diode. The ECU and radio memory only require
miliamps of current.
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