On Thu, 3 Mar 2016 10:37:43 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
Leave it to Chrysler to do something this stupid........
One reason I only buy GM vehicles....
I'd take one of the old car radios any day that actually had a knob that
changed channels and the presets were mechanical and stayed locked in.
When I'm driving, my mind is on the road, and there is no 5 second
timespan to fiddle around with stupid scan buttons and all of that. With
the old radios I could turn the knob and still watch traffic.
Then again, I rarely ever use my car radio. I'd much rather listen to
peace and quiet, or in summer hear the birds singing, than listen to
some advertiser scream at me..... or hear the mostly crappy music they
play these days....
By the way, if you fear losing your radio presets, write them down on a
piece of paper. How hard is that?????
On Thu, 03 Mar 2016 18:06:32 -0600, email@example.com wrote:
Well, GM does a lot of stupiider things - like producing an engine
with the same fatal flaw for something like 12 years - and not just
one, either (ignition switch, egr problem in plastic i ntake manifold
(3.8 v6) and timing cover problem (3.1) - just for a few....... You
can have your GMs. I've had my last one.
I like the sound of a well tuned engine talming through dual 3 inch
pipes myself - - -
On Thursday, March 3, 2016 at 7:06:53 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I say Honda, you come back with Chrysler. How come?
By the way, it's not a stupid feature, it was user error.
You can hear birds singing while you're driving?
In most cases I listen to talk radio, Tune In Radio or Pandora One. No commercials on Pondora and with Tune In I can pause the stream and then fast forward through the commercials.
The '99 Chebby pick'um'up had such (unbeknownst to me) and there was no
way to recover other than returning the vehicle to a dealer in the
factory radio. They can (and had done) deactivate the "feature"; some
dealers apparently want a handsome service fee for doing so.
I _think_ that idea died soon after a'borning, afaik the later (2010/11)
don't but I guess I otta' check before it needs being done.
That doesn't mean they haven't done other stupid things, of course, one
vehicle has a factory radio with no external antenna so there's no
reception to speak of in rural areas...if one _lives_ in a rural area
it's almost like the '40s and '50s when a radio was an extra add-on.
Needless to say, we now check; I'm d'd if I'm going to pay a premium to
some outfit monthly for the privilege of listening to the radio in a
Anyway, I'd suggest OP do some checking in the owners manual first on
just what is/isn't on his particular vehicle.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:36:06 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
He's got a Honda. I'd bet my left nut that the OEM radio requires
a code after battery replacement. Some dealers charge up to $50
to give you the code if you've lost the tag that came with the
I've got 3 Honda's. The codes are hidden in each car and also
saved on my computer. I don't plan on paying a stealer just for
Hard to say. Most things intended to remain "nonvolatile", nowadays,
use a type of memory that doesn't require power to preserve its
contents. It's cheap enough that it's almost silly *not* to use
it in new designs.
OTOH, if you want to ENSURE something gets "forgotten" when the power
fails, you'd store that information in "volatile" memory -- that requires
the continuous application of power to ensure its preservation. Candidates
for that include "security codes" -- so a thief pulling a radio ends up
with a radio that refuses to work!
In the past, getting LOTS of nonvolatile memory was a bit harder.
So, some things stayed in volatile memory simply because it was cheaper
("Hey, there's a battery here 24/7/365 so why NOT store in volatile memory?")
It's hard to know where that changeover would have been embraced
by particular manufacturers -- incl after-market equipment!
If it was me, I'd VERIFY that I have the "radio" code (in my hands)
and just plan on swapping the battery out "in short order". I.e.,
don't pull the battery today and replace it tomorrow, if possible.
Even volatile memory will retain its settings for some amount of time.
[IIRC, Honda records the code inside the glove box. Newer units
don't even need the code to be reentered as the radio and the
car kabitz to recognize each other -- I guess dealers got tired
of folks calling looking for radio reset codes!]
OTOH, the design might include something that deliberately detects
the removal of the battery and alerts the microprocessors (plural)
that the contents of that memory are NOT to be trusted!
If you opt for a settings minder approach, keep in mind that
opening the car door will put a load on that "minder" as the
courtesy lights come on, etc.
Remember, batteries die all the time (though usually not DEAD FLAT;
"Memory" can be preserved often down to ~2V on the battery)! So,
even if something is lost, it's probably not anything that the
car can't relearn (logs, driving patterns, engine performance
[I think some cars require you to drive for some period of
time after changing a battery and BEFORE getting an emissions test
in order for all the codes to set properly]
On 3/2/2016 12:33 PM, email@example.com wrote:
<snip> > Virtually ALL newer than 1996 (OBD2 and above) require the computer
True. If you download the detailed instructions for a drive cycle for a
specific vehicle it can be completed pretty fast. If you just drive
normally it could take weeks to complete.
I ran into this once. Changed the battery just before a smog check and
was told to come back in 30 days.
I've never had one take more than 3 days. And that was without having
the drive cycle spec. We are allowed one monitor not set - and that
is generally the evap code because the tank needs to be between 1/4
and 3/4 full, and the temperature needs to be right.
On Wednesday, March 2, 2016 at 9:20:41 AM UTC-5, Wade Garrett wrote:
The ECU will lose it's memory so don't plan on getting the car inspected
right away. Various monitors will have to reset (become active) before the
vehicle will pass inspection.
There are generic drive cycles that you can use to speed up the time it
takes for the monitors reset as well as specific drive cycles for specific
vehicles. Even if you do nothing special, normal driving will eventually
reset all monitors, it just may take a few days to a week.
Google car memory saver and it will show you a half dozen stating at $6
Alternate method is to find a place that does free battery changes and
let them do it.
Alternate alternate method is to buy a new car every 3 to 4 years.
Get a battery holder to hold 10 dry cell batteries and connect to a
cigarette lighter plug.. Plug it in to maintain voltage. Actually, a
lot of the "commercial" units use a 9 volt battery and a shotky diode
to keep the 12 volts from the car from trying to overcharge the 9 volt
battery. Apparently 9 volts is enough to keep all the settings in
On 3/2/2016 12:26 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Yes, a 9V battery and a Schottky would work. Or a 12V battery borrowed
from a power tool and a silicon diode would also work. Or an 8AA holder
((Amazon.com product link shortened)) and a silicon diode.
Where would you go to buy one diode now that Radio Shack is gone? In my
area I could go to a bunch of places, but I am in Silicon Valley.
Take apart damn near any piece of "kit" -- wall wart, lamp dimmer, PC, etc.
Bridge out of a (car) battery charger, alternator, UPS, etc.
Use an LED out of one of those "extra" remotes lying around (you know,
the one from that old TV that you discarded 6 years ago), solar landscape
You will likely lose any saved fault codes. In California this is a
problem if you're about to go for a smog check because the self-tests
can take weeks to complete unless you follow the specific drive cycle to
complete them quickly.
I had this happen. I went to get a smog check and they said to come back
in a few weeks because they could not perform it until the self-tests
were complete. If you have an OBD-II Bluetooth dongle, and an Android
device, you can buy the Torque Pro program ($4.95) and read the codes.
You don't need much to make a battery "keeper." A 12V battery from a
power tool and a diode would do it.
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