The OP has not said what he used to verify the breaker itself. A 100 watt
light bulb on clip leads is what I would use to put an actual load on the b
Anything else is subject to argument. I can't think that a staple in the wa
ll would burn thru a wire without something smelling or light flickering or
tripping the breaker itself. So for starters maybe the OP can tell us wha
t he used to verify the breaker itself. Then, we can proceed with further a
Last time I tracked one of these down, it _was_ behind the wall. A nail
from the exterior had pierced the romex and shorted N to G because the
electrician hadn't centered the through-hole on the face of the stud.
Have you actually put a test light bulb on the output side of the breaker to see if it really lights up?????????? A simple thing to do, and it is the only way you can really be sure there is voltage on the wires that go into the wall!!!!!!!!
On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 7:36:14 AM UTC-4, bob haller wrote:
Another question is the age of the house, ie if GFCI were required
when it was built. And if there are any other GFCI on other outlets
in the kitchen, bath, etc. If there are, then it would be unusual
for the two that are out to not also be on GFCI. When he looks for
other outlets, he should make sure to include ones
in the garage, outdoors, etc. It's not unusual to find some indoor
outlets sharing GFCI protection with one in the garage, outside, etc.
When are you going to use an actual light bulb to test the circuit at the u
tput of the breaker. Non-contact sensors can be fooled, and if there is an
open in the ground side, almost anything can indicatevoltage, except an ac
tual circuit load like a light bulb. It is beginning to appear that you ar
e the dim bulb because you won't do the definitive test at the breaker outp
On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 9:27:32 AM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
utput of the breaker. Non-contact sensors can be fooled, and if there is
an open in the ground side, almost anything can indicatevoltage, except an
actual circuit load like a light bulb. It is beginning to appear that you
are the dim bulb because you won't do the definitive test at the breaker ou
He did say he swapped the breaker with a working one and
also replaced it with a new breaker, both of which would rule
out the breaker as the problem.
On Wed, 28 May 2014 06:27:32 -0700 (PDT), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
If there is a load on the circuit, a non-contact sensor will not
lie. Any current draw will clamp the voltage downstream of a high
reistance / faulty breaker.
But the OP says there is an open somewhere, so the voltage may not be clamp
ed. I can't understand why the opposition to putting an actual light bulb
on the breaker output to put the issue of a possible breaker problem to res
t. Swapping out the breaker is probably the way to go, but the light bulb
is 100% accurate. I have in my 78 years seen all sorts of phantom effects
like the OP is talking about, and the light bulb or some other actual load
is the only guaranteed way to do this.
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