Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 05 Nov 2014 07:55:59 +0000:
This is the key!
Everyone thinks they're a diagnostic genius when they replace rotors
and their "warp" magically instantly goes away.
Yet, they start to complain about the car's brakes when the warp comes
back, over time.
They don't realize, most of the time, THEY are the reason.
The short term problem is the same, whether it's really a warped rotor
or if the rotor has simple DTV, for example.
But, the long-term solution is totally different - but you can't get
there, until you understand what caused the vibration in the first
And, it wasn't warp (as in potato chip).
Don't believe rotor disc can be warped? Days when they used cast rotor,
warp story was never around. To reduce weight(?) they started using
light weight rotor. When lug nuts were over tightened, things started
happening. Now every one pays attention to lug nut torque.
I have measured warp on street-use rotors, but that warp was a _consequence_
of some other problem. People drive around with bad steering bushings, they
get severe shimmy, and when they get that shimmy on braking it causes uneven
rotor wear, etc.
So, I'd say you're kind of correct and kind of incorrect.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
On 11/5/2014 9:41 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Wait till a couple days after voting day,
and the confusion will settle down to a
bit of harping by the radio hosts.
And, I approved this message.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
Mayayana wrote, on Wed, 05 Nov 2014 07:54:13 -0500:
As you rebed the brakes the pad deposits can change, and what oftne
happens is that the "character" of the vibration changes (either the
speed at which it starts and stops, or severity, or whatever).
That's a good clue that you're dealing with deposition and not some
mechanically different problem, such as warp.
Rebedding would *never* change the character of warp.
Rebedding *often* changes the character of what people "call" warp.
The long term solution is different when there's real warp involved from
when it's merely DTV or BTV due to uneven pad deposition.
Good luck. Let us know how it works out.
Once you understand this beast, you can drive with more finesse on the
Nobody is saying that except you.
Specifically, we provided a ton of good references, and we all know you
can find hundreds of thousands of Internet references where people
actually think their street rotors warped.
You're the only one saying that it's true because YOU read it on the net.
On Wed, 5 Nov 2014 07:55:59 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
We ALL know a cold is caused by a virus - but what experts like you
forget is that virus is always around - and in most cases it does not
make you sick because yourimune system fights it off. One way your
body kills virii is by the use of HEAT. That's what a fever is from -
your body fighting off an invader.
Lowering your body temoerature can reduce your body's ability to fight
off the infection - thereby CAUSING you to CATCH a cold.
Does the cold temperature and wet CAUSE the cold???? Nope. But that
does not mean going out in the cold and wet without a hat and cold is
a smart move and will not increase the likelihood of you catching a
Only a fool believes that.
The only long term solution to genuinely warped rotors is to use high
quality, well engineered parts and don't overheat them. Not
overheating them requires proper service and maintenance and proper
Poor quality parts, insufficient maintenance, OR bad driving habits
CAN cause genuine warping - as well as the problems you insist are the
ONLY common and misdiagnosed cause of brake pulsations generally
referred to as "warped rotors"
On Wed, 5 Nov 2014 07:59:51 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
You still do not know the definition of warp.
Warpage is distortion of the shape of the rotor from external (and
usually thermal) forces. Doesn't matter if it is "classic" potato
chip, "ruffles" or what you call "run-out". What defines warpage is
what causes it. Warpage does NOT include material deposit or wear, or
Distortion from heat DOES happen on street driven vehicles - and it is
much more common on a vehicle after the rotors have been cut to
"correct" "warpage" by any definition because cutting the rotor
reduces it's thermal mass, it's stiffness, and therefore it's
resistance to overheating and warpage.
It is also more common a vehicles towing a trailer or otherwize
operating under higher than normal load conditions or higher speeds.
IMPROPERLY torqued wheels does not necessarily mean overtorqued.
Unevenly torqued, and not sequentially torqued can also cause a
problem. Unevenly torqued is more dangerous than overtorqued when it
comes to disk warpage or runout. (and USUALLY torque problems cause a
runout condition which can often be remedied by simply retorquing the
wheel PROPERLY if caught on time.
On Wed, 5 Nov 2014 07:20:17 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
You really ARE a bloody idiot, aren't you??? You expect a mechanic to
take and keep pictures of every repair he has done in his lifetime?
When cameras on cel-phones (heck, even wireles phones) didn't exist -
and nor did digital cameras. Even Polaroids were a novelty for halt
that time - and we DID photograph some uncommon warranty problems and
attach the polaroids to the warranty claims.
Do you have a picture of yourself being born, to prove you are not an
alien and were not hatched????
Give it a rest already. You are in WELL over your depth.
And you have still not told us the difference, in your jaundiced eye,
between run-out and warpage.
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