this is hard to answer without seeing it. yes, shims might be a
possibility, though if your studs lean this way and that, the shims
would have to be tapered...takes some skill to cut 8' long tapered
shims. a lot of times, it is faster to just redo. even if the ceiling
is already drywalled, can you remove the studs and then then top plate.
fill the hole where the top plate was with a scrap of drywall, and put
your new plate on the surface of the ceiling drywall. another thought
is to put new wider studs along side the existing screwed up studs,
sort of firring both sides out in effect.
the other option is to just leave it. wood studs are seldom straight,
and after framing a wall, if you lay a straitedge across them, it is
typical to see variations of 1/4 to even 3/8" this isn't that
noticeble in the finished product--unless you are putting cabinets
good luck and don't forget to learn from your mistakes!
When I framed my basement there was a long delay between framing and
securing the drywall which resulted in some stud warpage.
As a result there was some stud prep required before drywalling that I
Take a long straight edge to determine where the wall is flat and
where it isn't. Less than 1/8 inch difference shouldn't be visible.
If only a few studs need to be moved you could perhaps whack em a few
times and drive a couple more nails.
If you've got to remove one - a sawzall can cut the nails and you may
be able to shim and resecure the same stud.
If the stud is warped, a neat trick is to sawzall through half the
stud on ann angle and drive a screw to pull the cut together. This
will take one large curve and make it into two or three smaller ones.
- posted on May 24, 2006, 1:33 pm
Cut the studs pull them plumb and sister the cut area with a short
piece screwed to both halves, even strips of 3/4 plywood work for this.
Figure on about 16" lengths or thereabouts.
- posted on May 24, 2006, 3:29 pm
Thanks all!! Very helpfull stuff.