Make the doorway higher.

Should work, but I'd be very careful and would be tempted to overbuild seeing as it *is* load bearing. Maybe make the header from 2x6's on edge rather than 2x4s as currently used.

nate

Why? That photo tells me you have a lot of work on the other side too do later.

All this for one door in a house?

Im I blind, I dont see it load bearing anything, the 2 outside 2x4 you leave inplace, they bear load, above the door bears no weight. I would just raise it. If it was a few pole screw jacks and a 4x4 would be easier than building support walls

Too much work. The king studs carry the load, so simply remove the 2 x

Joe

from subfloor to header. If you have a framing nailer it will go together quickly. An impact driver and construction screws are even cheaper overall cost and won't crack plaster like hammering used to. Have fun.

Joe

For what door?

Ransley and Joe: I'm assuming that the header is load bearing, is it not? Nate: what do you mean by "overbuilding" Also, about the recommendation of holding up the joints with 4x4. Does putting 2 2x4's together sufficient?

Many thanks for all the responses.

Aaron

Ransley and Joe: I'm assuming that the header is load bearing, is it not? Nate: what do you mean by "overbuilding" Also, about the recommendation of holding up the joints with 4x4. Does putting 2 2x4's together sufficient?

Many thanks for all the responses.

Aaron

The 2x4 header over the door should be at least 2x6 on edge with a spacer. I agree that building all that temp support is over-kill for the short time you will have the jack studs and header out. The double header on the wall is more than enough to support things while you work, but if you are really worried, a couple 2x4 to support the two joists over the door will more than suffice.

If you are planning to make the door wider, It looks like you would only be able to go to the left side, so put in your new stud on that side before taking out the old one.

It looks like you pretty old construction here, full 2x4 studs. Try and save and reuse what you can of this old wood so you don't need to shim new wood to size.

Mark

Above the door I say its not, I would just raise it, you are not making it wider, the supports wont be bothered.

That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat. -----

- gpsman

Squat is what it supports, a bit of lath and plaster.

Agreed, hardest part of the job will be cutting the lath and plaster above the door, without trashing the entire far-side wall surface. That keying loves to bust off the back of the plaster surface layer. Fine-tooth blade and a jigsaw, not a sawzall, is what I always had the best luck with. Don't rattle the wall.

-- aem sends...

??? From the picture, that is a load bearing wall and there are two joists supported by the door header which is undersized for its function.

Harry K

Aaron -- pay no attention to Ransley. He has no idea what he's talking about. The stud above the door absolutely *is* load-bearing.

standard 80 inch door. duh.

On 10/19/2008 8:01 PM aemeijers spake thus:

Maybe this is a job for the incredible MultiMaster (As Seen on TV!). (See other thread here.)

You are blind, the support is the 2 outer 2x4 that go to the ceiling, the 2 inner that attach to the header above door support nothing, blow up the photo and look, the ceiing joists are on the outer 2x4 that wont even be removed to put in a taller door.

You _do_ see those two joists running across the top of th door opening, right??

Take out that one cripple stud and you have two unsupported joists in a load bearing wall. Clues:

Doug is correct - you don't know what you are talkign about.

Harry K

I agree...