Make the doorway higher.

on 10/19/2008 5:46 PM Aaron Fude said the following:

Piece of cake. Here, I did it for you. I didn't use any bracing at all. I used a couple of PT wood for the header. :-)

ing about.

Okay, you are figuring the double top plate is sufficient support. I thought that was your idea. Call that a 36" opening between your two full length studs (by the way, single full length studs in that position would never pass modern standards). Per you, that is all that is needed. Now say that the clear span is 48" - still enough?, 60"? Just where do you, in your vast knowledge of constructions standards, begin to add a real (as defined by construction standards) header and cripples?

The standard is, or was when I took a carpentry course (applied) 40 years ago, a double 2x6 above all door openings and cripples at

Yes, you could "probably" get away with your jackleg, cut corner, method. It still would be piss poor work.

Harry K

The full length studs will *easily* support the top plate (as they do now), regardless of any code considerations. -----

- gpsman

Use 4 Inch Angle Grinder with a thin diamond blade. Draw the line and cut the plaster out. It's a clean cut with little damage. Not plaster, but I've cut plenty of stucco, wire, nail heads, etc. with this tool.

The blade is $35.00 vs what the multi blades cost.

Prepare for dust.

I'm not compelled to believe the OP is doing something standard here.

I'm guessing he wants a more majestic style door. Who knows his door size; now or then?!

So you think the cripple stud isn't supporting any of the weight that's loaded on the top plate?

I'm not blind ... but you're ignorant. Don't try to give structural advice. You haven't the first clue.

Top plate yes. The load the top plate is carrying - no. Don't tell me tht you also don't think it is a load bearing wall. Construction standards have been developed for good and sufficient reasons - it is best to follow them. Of course if you can convince a construction engineer that that is o.k...

Harry K

Addition. You are also overlooking the function of that cripple stud in the middle. It is transfering the load to the two jack studs. Even with that put back in it still falls far short of standard construction.

Harry K

I don't think anybody said he should build it back without a header over the door. What most of us said was, for the time it takes to do the work, the wall is unlikely to have any problems. But if OP is nervous, a section of beam a little wider than the door, and a screw post or two, to temporarily catch the weight of the joists over the door, would eliminate any concern. Even a couple of angled 2x4 kickers under the top plate, and toenailed into floor, would probably be plenty.

-- aem sends...

Agreed that it will hold long enough to do the work. However what 'most' have said is far from what you re claiming:

One sample:

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That wall ain't going nowhere, and the header isn't supporting squat.

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Harry K

e.

A clue, Ive done years of remodeling like that, the HO will not have any issues, I would not worry doing it in my house.

I notice you didn't answer this. I wonder why.

Yes, and I've done years of cleaning up after other people who did remodeling like that. The homeowner sure as hell will have issues if he follows your advice and rebuilds without a cripple stud; the cripple stud IS load-bearing, whether you are able to understand that or not. The fact that you would not worry about doing it in your house does not mean it's a good idea.

loaded

ice.

It is people like you who give real carpenters problems and causes the public to look down upon the trades, assuming of course that you actually do remodeling.

Harry K