On 12/4/2013 1:04 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Galvanized by any chance? If so could be internal rust buildup obstruction.
Alternatively, it's _possible_ altho somewhat unlikely that there's a
PRV in a location downstream of a branch from the main feed. More
likely if there's been an addition or other modifications since original
but in old work, who knows what might have been done?
On 12/4/2013 2:15 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
At 25 years, the chance of galvanized is pretty much zero. Is the cold
water pressure low everywhere or is it localized? Can you follow the path
of the water line from outlet-to-outlet? Frequently an outside hose bib
will be first in line. If the problem is localized, are you sure that there
isn't a water filter inline? I have lower flow in my kitchen's cold side
because I have a sediment/chlorine filter inline to improve my coffee's
flavor; if the filter was to be ignored for a long time it would definitely
cause problems. Alternatively, there could be junk in the line or in a
valve or in an aerator or a pipe could actually be crimped if there has
been work on the home recently.
The chances are slim to non-existant that a house vintage 1987 will have
been built with galvanized steel water supply piping. By 1987, copper
water supply piping was standard through the US and Canada.
Normally, when you hear complaints about low water pressure at certain
faucets, the problem is that something is clogging the aerators in those
faucets. The aerator screws on to the end of the faucet spout, and it's
what makes the water come out as lots and lots of drops rather than a
continuous stream of water like you get out of your bathtub spout.
That's because the aerator makes the water flow through a screen which
breaks the flow up into gazillions of droplets. It's the screen that
typically gets clogged up.
The problem is, if the aerator is clogged, it'll be equally clogged for
both hot and cold water.
I would ask your mom for more info. Which faucets have low pressure?
And, are all the low pressure cold faucets equally low in pressure? Are
they single handle faucets or two handle faucets. If two handle
faucets, do they have separate spouts as well, and do those spouts have
aerators on them?
Normally, low water pressure complaints arise immediately after someone
has a water heater replaced because the shaking and jarring of the
piping knocks stuff on the inside of the pipes loose, and that stuff
ends up clogging up faucet aerators giving the IMPRESSION that the water
pressure in that faucet is lower than the other faucets.
Most faucet aerators also have flow restriction devices in them. Those
flow restictors will have small holes the water has to flow through, and
those flow restrictors will get clogged up with stuff too.
The aerators will unscrew from the end of the spout by turning them
counter clockwise, just like a light bulb.
Pressure is going to be the same everywhere, flow may not be. Therefore, it
is a problem associated with the particular outlet(s) that have low flow.
The most likely culprit is - as others have said - the aerator but that
would affect both hot and cold, assuming a single faucet. If it is single
faucet I'd be looking at the cold water feed between shutoff and faucet as
the first place to check.
Again, though, to have the OPs symptoms it would have to be somewhere
other than the main.
And, just to point it out from earlier in the thread, the downstream
pressure for the outlet flow after an obstruction isn't the same as the
static pressure; it will be lower if there is such an obstruction.
When shut off the faucet it will again equalize, sure, and will start at
that when opened, but if the obstruction is large enough to
significantly reduce flow, the pressure will be lower as well...
Again, the ideas of filters, PRVs or other ideas is worth checking as
OP thinks it's not the cutoffs at the individual sinks, but I'd not be
quite so certain w/o checking altho again that it's multiple locations
apparently and that it is only cold implies something in the
distribution in a branch line. Hmmm....wonder if by any chance't
there's exposed copper in a basement and somehow somebody managed to
partially crush one while moving a large, heavy object or somesuch???
But don't open it fully and leave it that way, unless it's a ball valve. If
it's a gate valve (the type with a round or oval handle that you turn) you
should open it all the way and then close it about 1/8 of a turn. This
gives you some play in both directions if the shutoff should freeze up from
not being used.
I had to close the shut off for the hose spigot at my dad's house this
weekend and it was fully open against the stop. It was very stiff from not
being turned off in many years and it took some effort to get it moving. I
was really surprised that it didn't start leaking around the packing nut,
something that often happens when a shutoff is used for the first time
after many years, especially if it takes some force to get is closed.
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