On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 10:11:35 AM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
IDK how they have it defined, or if they have it defined. But I think
the intention is that if it's unfinished, it's essentially an open
space, cement floor, where one may be using it to work on stuff,
standing on the damp floor, using a shop vac to vacuum up water,
using a power drill, etc. Similar to a garage or outdoors. If it's
finished, then it's more like a regular living space.
On 03/31/2016 9:12 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
"I know it when I see it..." :)
I think it's that it's presumed finished living space will be dry
whereas unfinished is presumed will be slab floor and quite possibly
damp such that is better chance of grounding path in case of accidental
Being an old fogey, I personally think the Code in general has become a
tool for the manufacturers to force new, more profitable product lines
into wider acceptance thus enhancing their bottom lines more than it is
of actual enhancements to safety or fire prevention.
You're just cynical. Everyone knows it is to save the lives of
children. I'm a few months older than the official "baby boomer"
generation. Present generation is the "pansy, but safe", generation.
Gotta go. Have to lock up the aspirin and chain the cabinet under the
sink closed in case the grandkids visit.
On Friday, April 1, 2016 at 5:03:16 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
The Dems are for big business too. Are Dems opposed to all the farm
subsidies? Opposed to helping one big business over another, eg
green energy, ethanol mandates? CO2 mandates? Hillary has taken
plenty of money from big business, wall street being one prime example.
Hard to believe they are supporting her if she's not going to be on
their side. And to be fair, the GOP has been for big govt too. They
tend to let it grow little by little, over time with pork barrel money,
bigger budgets, etc, where the Dems like big new programs and takeovers
Might be able to put it on the next breaker
over (which will be the other leg of the
220 power input). That would move the surge
to other leg of the power panel.
Or, you might buy a smaller HP sump pump.
Smaller sump might have a longer run cycle,
and less start up surge.
On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 8:55:34 AM UTC-4, Jon Danniken wrote:
Or find out what's wrong with that circuit. A 1/3 hp motor should
not be causing dimming. Are the lights even on that circuit? If
they are not then something is very wrong.
Also 10 secs on time sounds like either the sump pit isn't big
enough, the float isn't working properly, or there is no check
valve allowing water to run back in.
I have seen a ton of homes with sump pumps, now thats a good thing.....
HOWEVER most of those homes were above street level.
so the owner could just use a gravity drain to daylight. although some digging will be necessary. but gravity tends to be highly reliable.
even if its just a overflow gravity drain to daylight, that a awesome thing. in a power failure or pump failure no flooding can occur
To reduce the number of times the fully submersible or the pedestal pumps r
un, you need to adjust the float levels so the pumps do not start to run un
til the water level is about 5 - 12 inches below the top of the floor. Whe
n the pump does run with the float adjusted that way, it will run for a lon
ger time, but the number of starts will be reduced, and the starting strain
is usually what all sump pumps ultimately die from.
Unfortunately, it is not IF a pump will fail, but WHEN it will fail.
We have been in our house for exactly 50 years, and learned this the hard w
ay. I now have two submersible pumps, with the floats set for two differen
t levels, and, in case of a power failure, a water-powered pump set to turn
on just before the water gets to the height of the lowest place in our bas
ement which happens to be right next to the sump hole. Separate discharge/
drain lines for all three pumps and reverse flow valves in each discharge l
ine to keep any critters out that might choose to go up the pipes looking f
or a hospitable home.
I periodically remove power to the first pump and check to see that the sec
ond pump kicks on ok. It takes too long to wait for the water level to reac
h the trigger level of the water-powered pump, so that one requires me to m
anually lift the float to start it running. But, we now can put things in
the basement without worrying about flooding. It will now take a power fa
ilure combined with a total loss of our municipal water supply and a failur
e of all three pumps and the discharge piping before we have a wet basement
On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 11:00:19 AM UTC-4, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
run, you need to adjust the float levels so the pumps do not start to run
until the water level is about 5 - 12 inches below the top of the floor. W
hen the pump does run with the float adjusted that way, it will run for a l
onger time, but the number of starts will be reduced, and the starting stra
in is usually what all sump pumps ultimately die from.
way. I now have two submersible pumps, with the floats set for two differ
ent levels, and, in case of a power failure, a water-powered pump set to tu
rn on just before the water gets to the height of the lowest place in our b
asement which happens to be right next to the sump hole. Separate discharg
e/drain lines for all three pumps and reverse flow valves in each discharge
line to keep any critters out that might choose to go up the pipes looking
for a hospitable home.
econd pump kicks on ok. It takes too long to wait for the water level to re
ach the trigger level of the water-powered pump, so that one requires me to
manually lift the float to start it running. But, we now can put things
in the basement without worrying about flooding. It will now take a power
failure combined with a total loss of our municipal water supply and a fail
ure of all >three pumps and the discharge piping before we have a wet basem
That's one of my beefs with condensate pumps for furnace/AC. They only
hold a very limited amount of water and probably a pint is enough to
cycle it. I had to replace the switch in a Little Giant that was only
two years old. Another problem is that many sump pumps, you can't
adjust the turn on/off. Looking for one that you can would be a good
idea before buying.
Hmmm, seems like it'd not be too difficult to increase the capacity (at
the expense of more footprint space, of course).
The one here was 30+ YO and still functional when we replaced system a
couple of years ago. Put in new one just on general principles so the
cycling hasn't seemed to be an issue; just luck of the draw on "infant"
mortality it would appear.
That was one of the features I _loved_ about the "drop in"
Flotek brand unit we were using.
The base was resting on the bottom, under water, with
the impeller inside. There's a (numbers very rough) four
foot pedestle sticking up, with the motor on top.
The motor turned a rod which extended down to the impeller,
thus the motor was always above the water.
Anyway, the "on/off" switch was courtesy of a "float" which
hung down vertically from the motor head and slid through
some rings. There were clips on that rod which you could
set so that the "up/down" movement between "on/off" could
vary anywhere from an inch or so to about a foot and a half.
Simple to adjust with clear visibility...
Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 11:05:52 PM UTC-5, danny burstein wrote:
Sump pumps of the same horsepower can have much different current draws.
For example, according to the documentation, the popular 1/3 hp Zoeller M53
uses 9.7 amps running and 25.9 amps starting. Where the Little Giant 6EN-C
IA-SFS Model 506630 1/3 hp (with a PSC motor) uses 6 amps running and, I be
lieve, approx. 12 amps starting. They are comparable in the GPMs they pump
-- actually the Little Giant claims better.
I recently installed that Little Giant and have been pleased with its perfo
rmance. I wanted a low current draw in case I needed to run off a small gen
erator or battery-with-inverter. Little Giant recently released the 6EC ver
sion which has an even more efficient motor which uses 5 amps vs the 6EN se
ries' 6 amps running.
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