Hello Everyone,
My Goodman GMT140-5D furnace will intermittently not ignite. What I mean is that the after the heat call from the t-stat, the inducer motor will come on, HSI igniter will glow for 15 seconds, but the burners will not ignite w ith flame. After 15 seconds and no flame, the igniter will shut off and try again, to the same result. This will continue until furnace locks out and will flash 1 continuous blink, which indicates an ignition failure fault co de according to Goodman error code diagram.
This doesn't happen every time, but once every 1-2 days. It seems to mostly happen if the temperature inside the home was higher than the t-stat setti ng for most of the day (days are warmer in Colorado now, nights are still c old) and the furnace was not calling for heat for most of the day.
If I remove the rubber hose from the pressure switch, and blow in and out o f the pressure switch, it will click, so I'm pretty sure it opens ok since I hear those clicks every time.
I've already replaced the igniter (twice), 120V/24V transformer, and the co ntrol board. I also had a an HVAC tech bend the HSI igniter bracket a littl e since he was sure that the igniter was too far from the gas burner and no t sensing the HSI glow. That worked for a couple of days, but then the prob lem reappeared. I also already cleaned the flame sensor rod.
I'm thinking that the problem is either a bad gas valve or wiring (possibly from a bad grounding). I haven't replaced the gas valve yet. I'm thinking if I test the gas valve and it receives 24V when igniter glows, but doesn't open, then the problem is the gas valve. If I don't get 24V to the gas val ve when the igniter glows, then the problem is the wiring/control board/gro und, correct??
Can anyone tell me the proper way to check gas valve voltage? I'm thinking I should be checking continuity (ohms) by touching the gas valve terminals with the multimeter test leads (red test lead to red terminal, black lead t o blue terminal) and the multimeter set the Ohms. If that's the proper way, anything higher than OL is good, correct? Or, is it better to check with m ultimeter set to AC voltage? Or should I remove the wires from the gas valv e terminals and check with AC voltage? Again, I'm trying to see if the gas valve is actually receiving 24V from the control board...
Any other suggestions, ideas are greatly welcome...