Lights blowing out frequently

You should still measure the sockets where you say the bulbs last longer.

Even if your voltage is correct at this location, if it is lower at other locations, bulbs will last longer there.

No, I don't especially think that is the situation, but when one does testing, he should test and record everything that could be relevant. Later on, he can figure out what is important and what isn't. Although he likely won't figure that out until he figures out the problem. That's why he needs all this info.

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mm
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I'll do that. In addition, I'll record the dates of each new bulb and when it blew. That should give me a true impression of the issue - if one exists.

Thanks!

Reply to
TC

Among whatever other factors get mentioned by others, I suggest a possibility:

You had a blowout and replaced the blowout with a a bad brand/model, leading to a string of frequent replacements.

I suggest avoiding dollar store ones for one thing. I also suggest using ones made in North America, Europe or (less likely for a non-halogen incandescent) Japan rather than China.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

Compact fluorescents can fare even worse in recessed ceiling fixtures. Their output of convected and convected heat is not reduced as much as many would expect, since they produce little infrared. A 42 watt spiral compact fluorescent can produce slightly more convected/conducted heat than a 60 watt incandescent. Add to this the fact that screw-base compact fluorescents cannot withstand high temperatures as well as incandescents because heat is bad for the built-in ballasts in screw-base CFLs.

In recessed ceiling fixtures, if you use screw-base CFLs it is better to:

1) Use CFLs rated for such use, such as Philips SLS of wattages 15, 20, and non-dimmable 23 watts 2) In general, use lower wattage. Odds are fair if you don't exceed 23 watts, better if you don't exceed 18 watts.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

I have found 130V lightbulbs at Lowes.

120V lightbulbs at 130V have about 40% of their rated life.

Another option is "/99" type lightbulbs, rated to last 2500 hours at

120V but not as compromised in light output as vibration-resistant industrial service lightbulbs. "/99" lightbulbs should last on average a good 900 hours at 130V. Last time I checked, bulbs.com sells these of the Philips brand.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

Most incandescents do not get major excessive wear from this.

Incandescents do often die on cold starts, but the explanation is usually mainly that they become unable to survive a cold start a little before they become unable to survive steady operation.

What usually happens in an aging incandescent is that the filament develops a thin spot that is also a bit of a hot spot. This weak spot in the filament is prone to temperature overshoot during a cold start, due to the resistance of filament material varying directly with temperature and the thin spot warming up faster. Protection from temperature overshoot on such a "deadly thin spot" usually helps little since their running a bit hot even steadily makes such filament thin spots suffer accelerated aging in a vicious cycle that accelerates worse than exponentially.

- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)

Reply to
Don Klipstein

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