Bought a house built in the 70s by the original owner who I bought it
off. The bathtub and sink were both dripping, so we went in and replaced
all the washers.
I messed up (or the threads were stripped) since when I put in the inner
parts, it just kept screwing as if it jumped off track. So if I screw it
all the way in, it shreds the end washer again.
So I only partially put it in, its not fully tight, but it seals shut
(the tap doesn't drip). Now the problem is when I turn the water on,
some water comes out the handle. Not a great solution at all.
So, other than taking all the shower tiles out, and cutting the old
copper fittings and putting a new one in, does anyone have any ideas on
how to fix this?
I am going to try some teflon tape to see if it helps seal it better.
If only. Behind my bathtub plumbing is my shower stall in the other
bathroom!!! So far so good.
I guess I could cut a hole in the tiled shower wall if I had to.
In Brooklyn, one bathtub backed against the kitchen wall, the shower
might have backed against the closet of the next bedroom, might have
even had a removeable panel.
But the 2nd bathtub backed against an ouside wall. That would have
been trouble on the fifth floor!!
My house is ancient and when it was time for me to replace the faucet
assembly a friend of mine who was a contractor told me I would never be
able to find the exact assembly I needed and the whole wall would have
to be opened up and new pipes put in.
If I went to one of the "big box" stores he would have been right...but
there is an excellent plumbing supply near my house and they still
stocked the identical assembly. The one I replaced was easily 40 years
old or more.
Whenever I have a project I tell them what I am doing, they then fetch
the *exact* parts I need and tell me *exactly* how to do it.
(Anyone who might live in Milwaukee...it's Crown Plumbing.)
We also have a plumbing supply house near us that I love. It's in the back
of a Kitchen and Bath Design Center. A lot of the contractors shop there.
As a homeowner you can get excellent advice from not only the folks behind
the counter but often from the contractors that are waiting on their
For electrical parts (and advice) I use a electrical supply counter that's
in the back of a lighting design center. Same deal.
For one job, I actually "hired" a plumber to come to my house and tell me
what to do. We found a time that he was going to be nearby and I met him at
the house. I had already jack hammered the basement slab and exposed the
connection I needed to deal with. All he had to do was look in the hole and
tell me what to buy. Best $20 I ever spent 'cuz I wouldn't have figured it
out on my own.
Yep...and even though he just gave you quick advice, that $20 was really
When I was still working, my company had a $210 minimum charge...but we
worked in an industrial rather than home environment.
When I was a service manager I had a "minimum charge" too. If the
charge wasn't enough to pay for the paperwork, I didn't charge - or do
I got a few tips ( but VERY few)
Basically it cost $25 between the work order and the processing. Any
bill under $25 was, at best, a break even proposition when all was
said and done.
Cheapest advertizing you could possibly dream up was to go out and
change the wiper or light bulb the guy had just bought from the
service department and say "no charge" - or lube a sticky doorhandle
or squeaky door hinge - and say "no charge". When they had something
that needed fixing, they remembered that and didn't haggle over the
bill because the KNEW they were being treated fairly.
And even though those freebies didn't show up in the service records,
the dealership STILL had the highest "retention rate" in all of
eastern Canada - and although the service department was not paid for
those jobs, we still had one of the highest "absorption rates" of any
dealership - of any brand, in the country.
"retention rate" is the percentage of cars sold in the last 3 years
that returned to the dealership for more than 3 services per year.
Target was 50%. Average was just over 30%. We were consistently better
than 75%, and for several years were well over 100% because we
serviced a lot of vehicles that had been sold by other dealers.
"Abvsorption" is the percentage of the total cost of operating the
dealership , not including salesman's commissions, that was covered by
the parts and service pepartments - in other words, what happens if
you go 6 months without selling a car???
Consistently over 100% - so the sales were "gravy".
Bet the plumber worked on the same premise - a few minutes while in
the area anyway bought a LOT of good will
$20 was cheap to me and a couple of free lunches for him. He came over at
the end of the day on the way home from a job that was in my neighborhood.
I don't think he "wasted" more than 15 minutes parking, coming in, offering
advice and leaving. I hate to use the term, but this really was a win-win.
BTW...this happened at least 15 years ago, so rates were cheaper then.
If your plumbing skills are as bad as your logical reasoning, you must be a
pretty lousy plumber.
If I hired you to come over and tell me what to do, how could you _not_
know that I couldn't figure it out on my own?
You can get hand saws that work, provided that you don't shove them in
too far around plumbing, or like you said, a utility knife works if you
are patient (and don't want a big dusty mess).
I like to find out where the studs are first, then cut right up to the
inside edge of one, the idea being to sister another stud next to it as
the stud which holds the replacement panel.
How does the packing look? It's the bonnet packing that seals the stem as
it passes through the bonnet nut. Replacing the packing is much easier and
cheaper than replacing the faucet valve.
What's shredded? Packing? Faucet washer? What's stripped? what type of
faucet is it?
If you take the "stripped" inner parts (the stem) to a hardware store
they'll sell you a brand new stem. Be sure to bring the stem with you to
the store, the threads are different for hot versus cold.
I meant the packing is shredded (if that is the part which kind of
looks like a plastic washer). I brought the stem, and we replaced that
the first time, as well as the rubber washer at the end of the stem and
the o shaped gasket around the middle. The end washer got chewed right
up (probably because we sank it too deep) and so did the packing.
We're having a communications failure. I'm not sure whether you are
working on the tub or the sink. I'm not sure whether you still have a
"stripped" problem after replacing the stem.
Something keeps shredding. I can't figure out what that part is. It could
be the faucet washer, an o-ring, or the bonnet packing Have you examined the
seat? Does it need replacing? Is it damaging the faucet washer?
I think that you have an easy repair and that you would be helped greatly
by watching a few YouTube videos. There are many good faucet rebuild videos.
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