Yesterday my tenants had a new washing machine delivered. The sillcocks
were leaking after they were turned off and back on the installer tried
to fix them but couldn't. So the tenant went and bought new ones but
could not get the compression sleeve off the pipe. I went over and then
I bought a compression sleeve puller at Lowe's
removed the old sleeves, cleaned the pipes with 00 steel wool, and put
on the new sillcocks with new sleeves.
They leak. Maybe one drop every 30 seconds.
So I was thinking of soldering on sillcocks instead, i.e.
Is there some reason that this is a bad idea? Why wouldn't a builder do
this in the first place?
Or is there some way to keep the compression sleeve sillcocks from leaking?
Compression fittings are stanfard for that use because the tight space
makes soldering difficult. If you are comfortable with soldering these pipes
then go ahead.
Ferrules can be mistakingly installed backwards. The bevel is different
on each side of the ring. The longer bevel should face away from the
Put the compression fittings on with lock-tite thread sealer?
Soldered on works better, but you need to know what you are doing to
make a good joint - and avoid melting the seals in the faucet. Best
method is to get thread-on faucets and salder a threaded adapter to
the copper pipes, then thread on the new faucet with thread sealer on
the threads (teflon tape or pipe dope) Then they are easy to replace
On 6/1/2014 12:59 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Whenever I've soldered to any kind of valve, I always wrap a wet rag
around the valve in the area where the valve seats are. In a
traditional turn type valve, I usually make sure the valve is not off or
not completely on.
No, there's no reason NOT to solder the supply valves on to the water
supply piping to a washing machine.
I have 3 washing machines in my building and all of the water supply
shut off valves are soldered into place. And, I have ball valves up
stream of those water shut off valves so that I can service the shut off
valves without shutting off the water to all three washing machines, and
those ball valves are soldered in too.
I usually do what Oren's suggesting... take the cartridge out of the
valve so that there's nothing that can burn.
But, always take a look at the bonnet nut. If it has EIGHT sides, that
usually means the bonnet nut was tightened up at the factory and the
valve is not meant to be taken apart. In that case, the best way to
take it apart is to put the eight sided bonnet nut in a vise, put a
folded up rag over the valve body and use a large pipe wrench to unscrew
the valve body from the eight sided bonnet nut.
Then, go to any place that sells O-rings, and buy a TEFLON BACK UP RING
to serve as a gasket between the eight sided bonnet nut and the valve
body. Teflon back-up rings are expensive, so expect to pay about $3 to
$4 each for them. But, they work exceedingly well as gaskets.
sms posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP
I never knew they sold these as being used to remove the ferrules. No matter
what you do they gotta go and the pipe will be distorted and have to be cut.
Use whatever you feel comfortable with. Definitely install ball valves as
shut offs. They leaving the washing machine for you when they bug out?
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