I just finished installing the knobs and pulls on my new cabinet doors and
I'd say the results vary from about 98% perfect on the doors to about 95%
perfect on the drawers with maybe one drawer being down to 90% perfect or
so. Obviously these numbers were rigorously derived.
For the knobs I simply used their paper template, clamping it in place and
using a nail as a gauge. This wasn't too big of a deal except maybe for the
fact that the template got a bit worn towards the last few doors.
The pulls were another matter. It was apparent that their suggested method
of putting this paper template up against the drawers and using a gauge to
mark holes wasn't going to work so I ended up making a jig out of some 1/4
masonite and some scrap white pine I had lying around. This got me to the
95% mark. The deeper drawers however weren't quite square and they weren't
quite squarely hanging in their slides so mounting the pulls squarely (which
i did) ended up having them slightly off the rest of the drawers.
Ok, all very interesting. Question is what do the pros do? Rockler has
these universal jigs for this type of thing. Is that what you all use?
btw.. I know you pros could care less but I, as a diy homeowner am getting
fairly deep into remodeling carpentry, drywall, etc. If other homeowners
are interested I could share lessons learned etc. let me know.
While you didn't specifically state it, I take it that the pulls you
were mounting onto the drawers used two mounting holes and the lack of
perfection you are grumbling about results from some of the ones on
drawers not coming out perfectly horizontal when the cockeyed drawers
are closed, and/or not quite centered side to side or top to bottom when
you got sloppy.
The horizontal and vertical positioning just requires a little more care
with the templates and/or measurements before you grab the drill.
I suppose that if I were trying to beat that non-horizontal problem on
those out of kilter drawers I'd drill just one hole first and put a
piece of masking tape on the drawer under where the other end of the
pull would be going.
Then find a nail which is a loose sliding fit inside the pull's screw
hole and clip its length so that the point protrudes about a millimeter
when it's dropped into the screw hole.
"Lightly" attach the pull to the drawer front with a screw through that
one hole you drilled, diddle the free end of the pull with the nail in
it up and down until it looks right to you, SWMBO or a bubble level.
When everyone's satisfied, push the pull against the drawer face so that
the nail point marks the masking tape and shows you exactly where to
drill the second mounting hole. QED.
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