I can't recall the name, but any good kitchen store has them. Diamond
cutters, I think. Maybe around $100. AC operated. Frankly, I prefer a
good flat bench stone. Check out over under rec.knives. They are on the
For cutlery you rubber cement strips of we tor dry to wooden paint
Most kitchen knives need to start at about 180 grit and finish with 600
I sharpen for a living. Can't seem to recall a good homeowner machine
but a 1x30 enco belt sander and fine belts would be killer and under 60
bucks or so.
Good method. I have a few "slips" made from scraps of
hardwood shaped for honing curved edges.
My best wood plane irons get taken to 2,000 wet-dry, from the Pep Boys
paint aisle, followed by a buff with green chrome oxide to knock off
the wire edge. 600 would give me a nice shaving edge. 2,000
gives me a finishing tool capable of leaving wood with a mirror
SiC paper cuts faster than the equivalent grit diamond and
costs a whole hell of a lot less while leaving a less scratchy
bevel. If I had known about it earlier, I'd never have spent hundreds
of dollars on various Arkansas stones and diamond plates.
I have a Tormek with small and large knife jigs. I think I paid around
$400.00 with the machine and almost every jig they make. Makes my knives
razor sharp. Great for the shop also.
You can get one here:
I am looking for a electric or battery knife sharpener for my kitchen
Any recomendations on price and where to buy.
I've been making and sharpening knives for nearly sixty years, and the
basics have not changed.
Know what the knife will be used for. A meat cutting knife will have a
different angle than a general use knife, like a paring knife used for
When sharpening, keep the angle the same as the original. Most commercial
sharpeners use only one fixed angle, and this has ruined more knives than it
It also depends on how dull a knife is. You should never let a knife get
real dull before sharpening. But if it is very dull, I use a bench mounted
belt sander with about 400 grit to get some edge on the knife. Then I go to
a soft Arkansas stone to improve it, and lastly, if I want a super sharp
edge (not generally desirable for kitchen knives), I finish with a hard
Arkansas stone and perhaps a strop.
A steel does not hone or sharpen a knife, nor is it meant to. The purpose
of a steel is to remove a wire edge. A wire edge is when the sharp edge
tends to have bent to one side.
Hope this helps.
When I put gas in my car,
I don't care where the oil was drilled,
I don't care about the refining process,
I don't care how it got to the gas station.
I feel the same way about sharp knives in the kitchen.
I want a "gadget" that'll sharpen a knife
with a minimum of thought, effort ( or worship ) on my part.
I'm sure that most housewives feel the same way.
Paint the bevel with a Sharpie marker. The sharpener will take the
ink off where it makes contact, revealing its angle setting.
Knives that don't get abused can be kept sharp forever with the
steel alone. Use a soft cutting board, never a ceramic plate,
give the knife a couple of light licks across the steel every time
you use it, and you might never have to hone it again.
I've tried everything, stones, electric, and nothing beats a crock stick
www.lansky.com/products/crock/pro.html for knives. Once you get them
shaped up it only takes a few strokes and you are ready to go. I use them
on kitchen knives and my stainless and non-stainless steel case pocket
The secret to a good sharp knife on the sticks is to use only downward
strokes and always alternate each stroke on the sticks, left right,
left right, no right right lefts and etc. RM~
PS, I do also have $$ electrics and they can destroy a good knife, they
work great on chisels.
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