I am basing this answer on the model you own being a direct drive
model. This class of machines comprises most top load washers that
have been produced by Whirlpool or Kenmore since the mid-80s. This
class of machine replaced the production of belt drive machines around
the same time. All direct drive machine share a common configuration
below the lid, with the differences being size of basket, type of
agitator, and other features.
Older direct drive models depend on the lid switch for the spin/drain
only. So, if it is draining, you know it is not your lid switch, or
the motor for that matter. There is no belt on a direct drive machine.
The component that is in common with agitation and spin is the motor
coupler, which transfers energy from the motor to the gearcase. Tilt
the washer back and look in the area between the motor and the
gearcase, at the front of the machine, underneath. There will be a
plastic disk on the motor, a rubber spacer, and another plastic piece
on the gearcase. More than likely, one or more of these 3 are broken.
You may see either plastic or rubber shavings on the ground. You can
press on the rubber spacer and if it can be depressed easily, that is a
good indication that trouble is present.
Replacing the components is easier when the cabinet is removed (you can
seach on the internet how to do this), but from underneath, you
1. Remove pump clips that hold it to motor, and swing out of the way.
2. Remove motor clips that hold it to gearcase, and put it aside.
3. Remove and replace plastic coupler parts on motor and gearcase,
correct placement is flush with respective shaft. You can use a long
1/2" socket and a hammer to assist. Place the socket on the plastic
piece and tap it into place.
4. Put rubber coupler piece onto gearcase coupler piece, allign motor
with that and start putting it all back together.
There actually is a heavy-duty coupler kit that is available, though
the regular duty kit is most common. A good parts counter will know