About 1 out of every 4 or 5 showers is lukewarm at best. When I get
hot showers they are fine (temp + time). I have tried to pay attention
to weather temperatures to determine if it might be a factor. But, a
warmer day does not always mean a hot shower. I also seem to remember
the hot water being hotter in the past. Is it possible that my water
heater is dying a slow death?
On Feb 12, 1:43 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Buildup in the bottom of the tank is keeping the thermostat from
accurately reading the temperature of the water and heating it back up
when it cools off.
Had the same problem with mine. It was gas so there was no cleaning it
out. It was also 30 years old and on borrowed time. I replaced it.
Nice hot showers first time every time.
Theoretically, yes. In practice... how lucky do you feel?
Personally I wouldn't attempt the job before determining that my
checking account and/or credit card could cover the speedy installation
of a new water heater if things went bad.
(been lucky on a few jobs like that.)
Ernie Willson wrote:
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
Oh my. It appears your plumber told you just a slight little white
lie. Shame on him. Dip tubes are EASILY replaceable. While doing it,
you may wish to replace the anode rod too. And by all means, if you
have one of those stupid plastic drain valves in the bottom of the
tank, rip it out and put in a new brass drain valve while you are at
All this can be done without soldering now with the available
compression fittings and flexible hoses.
Very true, but a threaded connection of 10-15 years might require some
large tools and a helper to break loose. I did do all of this stuff,
as well as replacing the T/P valve, to an 18 year old water heater but
needed a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a helper to get the anode rod out
(my 1/2" drive breaker bar was flexing alarmingly, and I didn't feel
like testing it to failure.) My basin wrench was showing similar
signs of abuse after removing the drain valve. This is why in my
previous post I suggested not attempting this unless one could
comfortably replace the heater on short notice. I got lucky, but I
knew I was taking a risk.
That said, my heater should be good for another 5-6 years now, and
when it eventually dies I'll be able to transfer the brass ball-type
drain valve over to its replacement, making preventative flushing much
easier and less risky.
I am with the plumber on this by the time you replace the dip tube,
anode/s and flush the tank likely requiring a new drain valve... If
your paying the plumber you will hate him if it leaks or fails to heat
well or starts leaking in the next year.
will have paid plumber a lot.
better to replace tank its a guaranteed fix
If your doing all this DIY its still marginal but parts arent that
costly. so your only out your time and not X hours of labor at what 80
bucks a hour?
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