I don't think so. Most of the LED things like under counter lights are probably added in some half-assed way by the homeowner or they are made with a transformer that has a plug. I've seen hardwired ones done right with the transformer mounted inside a cabinet or down in the basement. Depending on where it's going, the plug in type could be fine, assuming it's off to the side, behind some counter appliance, etc where the cord isn't objectionable.
I thought that we discussing his exact situation, not a situation where a plug in type transformer is present.
OK, so his transformer isn't like the freestanding one that I linked to, but it sure sounds like that style of transformer is inside the fixture. Bottom line is that he has 2 bare wires that he has to attach to a 110VAC source.
Well, in the previous post did include the wire in type too, but it wasn't one where the transformer is part of a panel. I missed that part. One would think that such a product would either have a junction box that's part of it or else be made to mount on a box like a light fixture would. Neither would seem suited to using it for cabinet lighting. Which is probably why the ones I've seen have been like the ones I described.
We really need a pic of the actual unit to see what it actually is.
Not wrong concept but a calculation that didn't match my concept. Thanks for the correction,
What 15 amps? It's a an LED, 15 watts.
For the record, FWIW, I was really just asking Derby because he got my goat.
If it's against code, I'm not counting it as an alternative.
We're talking about a wire coming straight out of the wall, from an opening in a junction box within the wall, aren't we? How could that not be a code violation?
In your other reply to me, iiuc in place of a wire coming out of the wall, from a junction box within the wall, you were suggesting a surface mount junction box. I think that would be less aethetically pleasing than a plug on a wire.
Twice. Once in the next two words and once in the follow-up post.
To be honest, "Screw aesthetics" was directed to you, not the OP. I know he's not going to ignore aesthetics and I wouldn't either, but you got my goat with the absurd implication that a plug on the end of a wire could be unaesthetic, based perhaps on the absurd idea that a wire he would find** on his transformer could be too ugly for a plug. Most people with kitchens have things with plugs plugged in, the toaster, the blender, a George Foreman grill, a radio, a tv, a microwave, a Mixmaster, one or more device chargers, and maybe other things (an electric rotisserie?). Putting a plug on his cord will not detract from the appearance of the kitchen.
**An industrial strength extension cord would look bad plugged into a kitchen outlet, but you won't find that on a 25 watt device.What's wrong with them? I'd put on the plug whose url I gave in the other post (in reply to his first post). If that didn't leave a long enough wire to mount the box somewhere decent, like under the cabinets hidden by the cabinet skirt (where I have my extra light) I'd add some wire too.
What connections?
What wire nuts? If the wire is not long enough, I'd solder more wire to it, with the connections offset from each other so there is no chance of shorting and so the bulge would be smaller, though longer.
What junction box?
That's a total non-answer. What is your alternative?
The OP didn't say that was how he was going to do it. It wasn't clear what he was going to do, unless you're a mind reader:
"Is it ok to install these lights behind an existing 20 amp outlet?"
The possible code violation I was addressing was the issue that Don brought up. Current code requires dedicated 20A circuits for kitchen appliances. If it's a circuit that was subject to that, then according to Don, adding some other wired in load is not code compliant. And I think he's probably right, but I'm not going to go look it up.
I never suggested a surface mount junction box.
If you want another solution, how about finding one of the many other LED alternatives that have transformers that you can plug in? Or at least a transformer that is separate from the led fixture?
I really hope those "Bare Leads" are really insulated wire!!! Otherwise there could be a serious fire hazzard as code violation!
not
"with bare leads intended to have a plug attached"
Neither of us know what those "bare leads" look like, but I'm leaning towards them *not* looking like the cord on my KitchenAid Artisan stand mixer. Since he said the leads were "intended to be hardwired inside the wall" we can be pretty sure that they did not use an appliance cord, because appliance cords are not intended to be hardwired inside the wall.
Of course, his description could be wrong. Neither of us know, therefore my "implication" is no more absurd than your idea of just soldering on cord with a plug.
A picture would, as always, be helpful.
You can't make that assertion without knowing what the "bare leads intended to be hardwired inside the wall" look like. Again, based on his use of the words "intended to be hardwired inside the wall" I lean away from the simple attachment of a plug being aesthetically pleasing. In fact, it may not even be to code.
It's obvious that you are picturing a totally different set of leads coming out the device than I am.
Once again, a picture would be, as always, helpful.
My alternative is to wire it per code and keep aesthetics in mind as I'm planning the project.
That is the only answer I can give until I know what the "bare leads intended to be hardwired inside the wall" actually look like. In the end, that will still be answer, but it will probably have some more details added once I know what he is working with.
"Fairly new" if you have trouble remembering the difference between Lyndon Johnson and Andrew Johnson. I think it first showed up in the
68 code. It was certainly essentially the same as it is now in the 75.
The subject of this thread is a 15 amp cabinet lights.
THAT 15 amps.
Yes, you're right. Funny no one else commented on that. IDK what that's all about.
So you have a 1800 watt (15A * 120V) light. Maybe it's a warming cabinet (to keep food warm). Put in a dedicated circuit for that.
This is all so silly since he could solve most of this by posting back and addressing our questions, implied and explicit.
But I took "intended" to refer to a drawing or instructions that came with the light and nothing to do with the wires' actual appearance. If you consider that possibility, we might have opinions closer to each other than they are now.
True.
Well, they don't look like alligators. They look like wires.
What in the code prevents connecting two 14, 16, or 18 gauge wires to a plug? ..........
So as yet, you don't have an alternative.
True. They might even look like the wires that come with a bathroom fan.
3 loose wires (18g?) one black, one white, one green. Maybe it's a short run of Romex. Do you feel that putting a plug on those types of wires "will not detract from the appearance of the kitchen?"If you think that either of those will be an OK look, then we have nothing further to discuss. If you agree with me that that that would not be aesthetically pleasing, then I repeat:
You can't make that assertion without knowing what the "bare leads intended to be hardwired inside the wall" look like.
I don't know. That's why I said *may*. You keep making statements based on your assumptions of what he is dealing with and I keep leaving it wide open until we know the details. You have no clue what the "bare leads intended to be hardwired inside the wall" look like, yet you keep saying things like "Put a plug on them! Solder on longer wires! It'll be beautiful! It will meet code!"
That make no sense.
As I said before, I'm not going to jump to a detail explanation of an alternative until I have all of the facts. My stated alternative covers the general situation based on the facts known at this time. To code and aesthetically pleasing.
Hi everyone,
Thanks for all the feedback! I realize my description might have been bad enough to cause more confusion that I expected. As I mentioned, I'm a mech anical guy so I'm not familiar with electrical terms and I only remember ba sic stuff from school like P=VI.
Check out these two images to see what I'm trying to do.
- The LED panel (with what I referred to as the three "bare leads")
- The outlet on the left is the one I would like to use to power the panel
- The remote switch
- The 3 wires coming out of the LED panel would get connected (spliced?) on to corresponding existing wires inside the wall. This is what I mean't by "behind an existing 20amp outlet".
- The orange circles show the connection (splice?) points
Other points of clarification
- The LED panel does not consume 15amps. I can't find the specs in any doc umentation, but it may or may not be "rated for 15amp circuits".
- The LED panel has output specs of 24V, max 14.7W.
- The LED panel input spec only says "120V". But, in some other documents, I found a spec that says "Power: 5.3W". Not sure what that means.
- I don't want to attach a plug to the cable and plug it into the outlet fr om the outside.
snipped-for-privacy@google.com posted for all of us...
You have to run those 129v leads into some kind of jbox. The jbox must be fed. The jbox cannot be inside the wall but it can be mounted creatively.
J ad a detailed reply written but the power went out so others can look at your pix and help guide you. I would just use a plug to an existing outlet.
That looks like it is supposed to get a plug. Your "legal" answer is to install a receptacle in a cabinet or somewhere out of sight, put a plug on it and plug it in.
Issues are "cords" used as permanent wiring and "cords" concealed in the wall.
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