Ignitor Switch for KitchenAid cooktop

[Steve Kraus]

I need some help for a KitchenAid gas cooktop. (Same one I was looking for knobs for a while back. I put that on the back burner--pun intended--for now.)

I need an ignitor switch. These sit atop the gas valves and astride the shaft. Or a new valve incorporating a switch.

Before you ask we already attempted pro repair. I looked up recommended service outlets on the KitchenAid site and had a tech come out. He looked up the model, said sorry parts are NLA, and left, having the power disconected internally and us having to start it with matches. I've since temporarily wire-nutted around the vacant switch position so three burners work normally and the fourth can be started by operating the ignitor via one of the good controls.

So...a hundred bucks wasted. The cooktop is about 20 years old and given the longevity for such a device I don't think it's all that ancient but that's a separate discussion as to how long parts ought to be available.

I'm hoping however that the switch was not unique to this model and might be available as a part for some other model or brand and no one bothered to create a cross reference table. Or there's another gas valve & switch combination that could safely fit.

Here's the switch:

Ring any bells?

[Steve Kraus]

Oops...left out the the model number:

Kitchen Aid (Hobart) KGCS1340

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Do you have the part number for the switch? I tried repairclinic.com and they only list one part for that model, a seal kit.

You can try taking the part to an appliance dealer that has a service department and maybe one of the old times can tell you more.

[Art Todesco]

I'm so tired of our throw-away society. I think I would put a momentary switch button somewhere near the controls and use that to activate the starter. I too, have a KA cooktop from about 1990. I have had lots of problems with the high voltage ignition module and with the spark ignitors themselves. The spark ignitors cost you about $25 or 30! All they are is a piece of wire in a ceramic sleeve with a simple bracket. The modules are closer to $100. I replaced the module once .... it worked ok, not perfectly, for a few years. I replaced it again, this time with a non KA equivalent. This one works better, but still not perfect. This one has a much higher rep-rate. I think, because there are more sparks, it it more likely to light quicker.

Sorry for the rant!

[Steve Kraus]

Something I am considering. I like the cooktop as it has cast iron(?) burners and potholders, not something stamped out of sheet metal.

Ours acted up once. I checked and it absolutely had 120VAC getting to it but no HV zaps coming out. I bought a replacement but by the time it arrived the original started working again and still does. Never did figure that one out. I still have the replacement. I figure if the furnace ignitor ever goes out I can use it as a temporary sub by using a doorbell transformer to step the 24VAC back up to 120 to feed it.

[Steve Kraus]

Not for just the switch. The manuals refer to a switch harness as part number CC-70168.

I will try that as well.

[Rudy]

Didja try these guys ?

The cooktop is about 20 years old and given