While we are on the topic. I understand that 110V in a fuse box is all
there is available to connect to. Its a rail. If you want 220V you have to
use 2x 110V. Can't remember if there are 2 rails, or how it works.
Probably. Anyways, with a 110V std. wall plug you have the hot (black),
neutral (I have just learned by poster above) the white is "neutral", forgot
what it was, but it kinda explains what it does (or not), ground is into
the earth via rod pounded into earth and plumbing pipes used etc. So a 110V
needs 3 wires. Since 220V has 2 x 110V does not a 220V ned by definition 4
conductors. I know my dryer plug has 4 conductors because its got a 4-prong
plug. If I needed to be sure if my wire out from house was a 110V couldn't
I at the very most check it by counting the number of wires through to and
in the sleeve and boxes the cable was connected to (magnifying glass etc.)
Or might a 220V only have 3 wires as here?
My problem here was obviously I was (could) not read the schematic, until it
died after 1 hr itself, at which point I knew something in my (lack of)
thnking wasn't right.
oh, btw, between the pump and the wires out of the ground from the house
each year we disconnect not the pump but a weatherproof swirch box and bring
it inside, wrapping the wiring from the elements and leaving the pump itself
wired up to the box inside. What if I did ground to ground (screwed onto
steel box), black to black (marette), and white to one side of 2-screw
switch, and the other white to the other screw of that 2-screw switch. I
think someone here said to switch black, not white as I did. I will do
black next year. Is it bad to wait a few months. What could happen e.g
GFCI and all?