Did they also tell you Muratic Acid will corrode China and abs pipe so
use carefully , not the best thing to do to often don.t recomend to
people as there is some danger of boil up in the boil if the water you
use is to hot . Also open your window as sulpharic acid fumes will be
produced. Have only used once in 27 yrs of plumbing if you know how to
snake you won't need to.
as i said you put it in wait 15 minutes and flush 15 times, normally
toilet water isnt hot, and i always say open window take deep breathe,
poor get out shut door.
snake cant clean interior sediment..........
acid sounds scary but really it isnt, and no worse than other stuff
like drain cleaner
Muriatic acid does not affect any of the usual plastics, and I don't
see a problem with ABS. Once mixed with water, it produces only very
minimal fumes. (More concentrated muriatic acid produces more significant
fumes, though not in huge amounts.) Its fumes are not anything sulfuric,
but hydrogen chloride (which are harmful if inhaled in strong
concentrations - they form hydrochloric acid in lungs and anyplace else
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. Freshman college chemistry classes
and some highschool chemistry classes have students using hydrochloric
acid in 6-molar concentration, which has pH less than zero. However, a
skin splash of this is pretty much a non-event if it is rinsed off right
away. I would not want to get it in my eyes - but they say it's not the
worst thing that can happen - they say strong alkalis are worse on skin
and eyes, and have greater urgency to rinse away and neutralize with weak
opposite. (Strong oxidizing acids such as nitric are worse, and
concentrated sulfuric also causes nasty dehydration reactions, including
carbonization of sugar. Battery acid is sulfuric, but not concentrated
enough to carbonize sugar. The bad effects here are mainly from chemical
aspects other than acidity, and not problems of muriatic/hydrochloric.)
I would worry about china, and use muriatic acid only rarely and keep
exposure to limited amount of time and still not be surprised if the
Muriatic acid will eat away at iron and most steels. It does not do
much to copper, but quickly dissolves copper oxide and a few other copper
corrosion products such as copper carbonate - and metal oxides and metal
carbonates in general. It very slowly attacks solder - so it should be
flushed away with very generous amounts of water after a reasonable amount
Copper pipes in older/worse condition may sometimes have a solder joint
crack or some other little gap plugged up with corrosion that is easily
dissolved by acid - and such flaws may start leaking when or shortly
after you use the acid. I don't consider this common, but still something
to watch for. (Though in my experience drain pipes are usually not
A few municipalities (primarily Chicago and Philadelphia IIRC) have
plumbing codes requiring iron/steel drain pipes from homes to sewer lines.
The politically powerful plumbers union lobbies to maintain requirement
for heavier weight pipes that require more man-hours in those cities.
I would not leave acid sitting in one of those drain lines - flush away
with *a lot* of water after several minutes or a fraction of an hour, and
still use acid rarely.
Sulfuric acid is sold to plumbers for unclogging pipes. When mixed with
water to a concentration much less than something like 84% H2SO4 16% H2O
by weight, or close to 75% H2SO4 25% H2O by volume, it loses most of its
nasty effects other than acidity (pH probably still something like -.7 at
that point as an educated guess).
However, even still, strong acids when mixed with water may generate
enough heat to be a problem. But I see at most minor problem here from
muriatic, since it already contains a fair amount of water. Pure HCL is
not even liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure - it is a
gas, and liquid hydrochloric is a good part water!
Do as you oughtta - add acid to water
To get your eyes blasted, add water to acid
(Adding small amounts of water to strong acid can cause the mixture to
boil and spatter. Not-so-small amounts of water added to strong acid can
occaisionally still be a problem if boiling starts before enough water
mixes in to cool things. Even if you add acid to water, if you do this in
a chemistry lab you should stir/mix to whatever extent is feasible to
minimize significant "hotspots" of slightly diluted acid.)
- Don Klipstein ( email@example.com)
Questions to expert:
1: HOW MUCH rock salt, water, etc to kill roots.
And how do you actually do it?
Won't the mix just run on over the root and keep going
downhill. How to make it stay there surrounding root,
so it gets taken-up by it?
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically:
How much, for how long, etc.
3: As for long snakes (toilet-snakes!), don't they come with a bent hollow
tube through which you feed the snake down the hole, thus keeping
away any *visible* scratches?
exposure appears enough. i mix a 25 pound bag of rock salt with hot
water in my basement wash tub, put a little down the basement toilet
too, one flush with the toilet, mix with some hot water in the
washtub, leave some salt. go out for day. so salt water remains in
line. the worse the clog the better it works.
might do it two days in a row, if things are bad.
honestly i just do it 4 times a year but always in spring right before
trees leaves open. maximum root growth occurs at this time
a quart in a couple doses, 15 minutes apart one dose may be all thats
needed. dont do mre often than necessary.
theres a chance it might damage china, or steel drain lines but i
havent seen it, thats why i recommend flush 15 times when done, so any
remaining acid is washed and diluted.
if the toilet is bad anyway what do you have to lose? and many use
drain cleaners with much the same risks without a thought...... so
dont fret too much.
yes they do but its only good for a toilet trap clog, and doesnt help
a sediment toilet
10 bucks pays for acid, safety glasses, and plastic gloves. although i
put some acid on my hand and nothing happened, just felt a little
warm, and i rinsed it off.
a friend with a chemistry degree said its no biggie, and it wasnt. i
asked him first
PLUMBERS dont use acid, cause theres no money in it, much more
profitable to install a new toliet:(
after all the plumber who posted here said he only used it once in 27
years......... once must of been enough to teach him it wasnt
if your contemplating replacing the toilet anyway you have nothing to
acid works when a bucket of water flushes solids fine and a regular
flush sees water just swirl around.
please post here if it works
Similar occurrings here.
I've taken to leaving what I'll call a "dandelion weeder", looks like
a big screwdriver but with V-shaped head, on floor near toilet, making
it possible to break up the occasional truly huge and almost as hard
as rock "bombs".
I also know that a change of diet and of water, like when on a trip
out of the country, can result in several days of nothing at all, and
then EL GRANDE that no toilet, other than an outdoor latrine, can
Embarrassing -- having to ask for a hammer and chisel! :-)
(BTW, that was a joke, those last three words)
I agree-- it isn't that much work to pull the toilet which is the
most likely culprit. And if it isn't- snaking the drain sans
toilet is infinitely easier.
I'd go for the rubber one. $5 vs $2 , but easier to install- and the
re-usability factor might come in handy if we're all correct in our
assumption that one of the rugrats is sending things to the ocean via
[oh- and I'd pull it- then if necessary buy a snake. Handy critters
to have in the garage on a Saturday night with a house full of
Your mindset about snaking is leading you astray and wasting time. I
would pull the toilet even just to snake the lines. In fact, I'd pull
and re-install the toilet several times, before I'd bother with even
going to the workshiop and looking for my snake. It's just not a big
deal to pull the toilet, reach your hand in to find the matchbox car
and be done with the whole stupid episode. I'll bet you still haven't
even tried to reach in from above with your hand. Stop prcrastinating
and tryiong to avoid the inevitable. With small kids, you are going to
be doing this again at some point.
On Mar 20, 12:02 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Oh Salty, you somehow know me well. No, I haven't reached into the
toilet with my hand yet. I admit to being reluctant to doing this.
Yes, I know the water in the toilet bowl is clean (after a fresh flush
anyway). I will try to work up the nerve to try it this even IF I
don't have any luck with another auging session. Oh, by the way, when
I was home for lunch my neighbor was out in his yard and I asked him
if he had a snake I could borrow and he said he'd try to dig one up
for me out of his basement/garage. I'd bet the ranch he has one, he's
got at least one of EVERYTHING.
Thanks again everyone!
P.S. Cheri - if this doesn't work, I just might try your suggestion!
Where did you buy Muriatic Acid anyway?
The water in the bowl is not clean, there is all sorts of nasties in there.
This however is probably not going to be a problem unless you have open
sores. Be sure to wash your hands afterwards.
Pull the toilet, carry it out to the lawn, turn it upside down and stuff the
garden hose in from the bottom.
After you have cleared the blockage, use a mirror and check the little holes
under the rim. Often these get gunked up and having the hose handy makes
cleaning and flushing these hole out easy at this point. A chunk of coat
hanger wire is handy also
While you have the toilet pulled, if you have any touch up paint left over
you can now paint behind the toilet.
Also while you have the toilet out, it is a good time to change the gasket
between the tank and the bowl, and clean really good in all the nooks and
crannies. If you do not already have one, invest in a 1/4 turn ball valve
for the supply and replace the supply line with the good stainless braided
line. The price of these parts is a whole lot cheaper than fixing water
damage in the future.
If the toilet has ever ran or the internals have ever given you grief, now
is a good time to replace them. The FluidMaster fill valve is a reliable
brand and a whole lot better than the ball on the rod floats. A good
quality flush valve and you are done.
When reinstalling, once you have seated the bowl, and are sure their is no
leaks, a small bead of caulk around the base may be a good idea, especially
around the front and sides.
Start early in case you need to make multiple trips to the hardware store,
or something goes wrong.
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
before you pull toilet, confirm does it flush well with a bucket of
if not pull toilet.........
if it flushes fine with a bucket pulling toilet will do no good at
muriatic acid placed carefully will clean out the interior passages of
the toilet 20 minutes and 10 bucks if you need saftety glasses.
safe effective fast and cheap. works amazingly well as another poster
reported here, i am the one who told him about it:)
when you flush the toilet actually creates a wave that moves the waste
solids into the large bottom drain & trap.
but you must have enough flow to start the wave, over time sediment
builds up in the interir water passages bowl rim ald slows the flow of
fresh water. at some point stuff just swirls around....
watch under the bowl rim, often gunk built up clogging the exit holes.
you can use a coathanger end to open the holes some but the sediment
still fills the bowl rim and cant be reached.
put on safety glasses, plunge drain bowl water, sponge is good idea
so bowl is completely empty tank water can remain as is.
put funnel in dip tube top pour a cup or two of acid in funnel. and
some in bowl no splashing have window open and take deep breathe
first, then leave room shut door wait at least 15 minutes.
then return and flush about 15 times to dilute all remaing acid. you
will see brown goo, thats the melted sediment.
this really works
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