Does anyone know a way round this? Matt paint has been used over the top
of silk paint, which may have been used over the top of bathroom paint,
and the result (unsurprisingly) is a crazed and cracked surface. Is
there any kind of undercoat or something that could be put on top of
this before repainting? We are trying to avoid scraping all the walls.
Any ideas that don't take hours of work or cost a huge amount would be
Thanks in advance.
'drills' (http://www.oneclicktools.co.uk /)
I don't know what silk paint or bathroom paint is, but
you should be able to apply different sheen paints over
each other without the result being that it is cracked
and crazed. Something must have been done wrong
along the way.
If the paint is otherwise secure, not peeling off, flat, etc.
going to wall paper might be an option. Or again if
what is there is sound, applying a skim coat of drywall
compound could work. On the other hand, if it's a real
mess, re-drywalling might be the quickest, easiest option.
How old are those previous paint coats?
Possibly the different coatings weren't compatible with one another,
causing the crazed/cracking, rather than some other factor. If the
last coating was applied a year or some years ago, maybe any cracking/
crazing has finished doing its thing. Cheapest way to possibly test/
fix, before stripping, is apply a good oil primer. See what happens
with the primer coat, before applying a paint coat. Lightly sand the
surfaces, or use a liquid sander, before applying the primer. Lightly
hand sand the primer coat, smooth, before applying the paint coat(s?).
I used to use EASY-OFF Window Cleaner in a yellow spray can for this
type of work. Sadly, they discontinued this amazing product. Also,
cleaned windows WITHOUT streaking.
Since, I have discovered [almost as good'] that a sanitizing product
by Brulin's, Indiana, Unicide 256, some type of quaternary compound
normally used for sterilizing veterinarian and hospital areas after
cutting 256 to 1 - killing power equivalent to bleach. But don't use 1
oz to a gallon of water, instead use 1 oz to 16 oz, makes the liquid
very soapy. Then, with GLOVES using 100-120 grain wet n dry paper
sand away. The paint will turn into a slurry, self fill, revitalize
elasticity, and when dry; paint over. Usually flat by the time you're
done. Pretty dust free and you're not adding to the surface, just
'shaving' it down a bit. Oh, one tip: don't use a soft sanding pad.
Use a hard flat pad, else the slight amount of softness will leave
indentations as the paper conforms to uneven surfaces if the cracks
The alligatoring that you describe is usually a result of painting
over old oil paint with latex paint and not properly preparing the
surface to be painted. Latex paint moves more than oil paint, and
You don't say how big the bathroom is or how much wall/ceiling area is
affected, but depending on the severity either applying a skim coat of
joint compound as already mentioned, or using painters' wallpaper
liner. The liner comes in much wider rolls so it goes up easier and
there's no pattern to match - it's just plain white paper. If the
alligatoring isn't loose and/or deep (from many coats of paint), then
the liner will bridge the visible cracks without having to fill them
prior to applying the liner.
Easiest thing to do is to do a test with some compound and hit it with
primer after it dries to see if you like the results. It'll probably
be fine. Make sure to scuff sand the walls and really clean them well
before applying compound.
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