Yep, I've had to drive the 20 miles to put sandbags in the doorway. There is a trench with a steel grate there too but the drain pipe goes straight through that part of the building, two floor drains are on that pipe, then it goes out the back and dumps on the rail siding. The pipe is only 4"...it should have been a LOT bigger!
Yep, if there is standing water in front of that door we can't load or unload trucks there and we have to use the other overhead door for shipping and receiving. That side of the building is a bit higher and there's no problem with water but it's harder to move outgoing shipments through the factory to that door.
The sandbags work just fine but we have to replace them about every three years for $20 delivered from the supply house three blocks away.
You can buy the strips right at the Home Depot/Lowes places. You want a nice warm day and use the correct adhesive. We did this on the fire station a few years ago when the concrete settled a bit. Easy to do and works. The only thing to keep in mind is do not turn while crossing the strips. Drive straight over them.
Suspect that won't be near big enough for a commercial-size overhead door. The ones I have seen actually in use are more like parking stop strips- 6-8 inches wide, and at least a couple inches high. In addition to the glue (which helps keep water from passing under), you do need to spike them down with big lag screws.
What I would like is something 1.5-2" high, 8-10 inches wide, and some thick permanent goop to put under it to seal the gap between the floor and the bump.
Our doors are 14' X 12' and 14' X 14' industrial aluminum insulated.
We used these because they seal under the door and keep water out and are not hard to drive over. The doors set down on them and stop the water and snow. If you have 2" of water coming at the door you have a MAJOR drainage issue.
Yep! For real. I occasionally get a catalog from them, even though I've never bought from them. It might be a spinoff from the MSC purchases, though it could be from other places which are less likely.
For that matter -- I keep getting e-mails wanting to purchase something machinery related from me -- always listed in parens as though someone was filling in a blank -- and of course wanting to know whether I accept credit cards. :-)
"They" also want to know how many models and the prices.
Since I don't sell *anything* -- and *especially* anything new
-- I always figured that it came from someone going through rec.crafts.metalworking to find possible victims. However, a friend who never has posted here (yes, I know that this is also cross-posted to alt.home.repair, but that is not where *I* found it :-), got one of those recently too, so who knows where they are digging up addresses.
Even if I *did* sell things, I certainly would not respond to a request like that. :-)
"Permission" does not appear to have the same meaning in English as it does in Legalease. The court can decide retroactively that you *did not grant legal permission* even if you did indeed grant 'permission'.
From _Tapley v. Peterson_:
"..Next, the plaintiffs use of the land was not permissive (as defendants contended), but hostile, because the ?conduct of the plaintiffs with respect to the driveway area was flatly inconsistent with any claim of permissive use.."
It sounds like you would be on much firmer ground if you *paid* your neighbor to plow snow and he *paid* you a rental fee for his parking spaces. With contracts, canceled checks and everything. Even if it is the same damn 300 dollarettes sloshing back and forth between your accounts.
I'm not a lawyer and certainly don't play one on USENET.
Which is all the more reason to get a couple legal opinions because very little about _Tapley v. Peterson_ seems intuitive or logical to me.
Note that the word 'interruption' has a specific legal meaning that has very little to do with the English word 'interruption'. :)
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This cite, at least, implies very heavily that your neighbor was not *legally* interrupted unless you brought *legal action* against him to prevent him from parking on your property. If he parks there after you go home, he had 'uninterrupted' use of the property, *legally speaking*, based on the cite above.
As for adverse possession, what ought to work is a rental contract. One requirement of a contract is that there be "consideration" (=payment). While payment is most often in money, this is not actually required, and some of the consideration can be in the form of snowplow services.
But, talk to your lawyer. Adverse possession cases don't happen all that often.
If you plan to use that hard-tire forklift and a pallet jack, engine hoist and the crane beam and such out that back door, the only real solution is a concrete trench drain with cast iron grates that have a high enough point-load rating to handle the tires and cast iron casters.
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has a system with precast plastic trench drains with built-in slope to the end that has the underground drain line - And they have center drain receivers if there's an old-style single drain in the middle of the doorway and you want to use that line.
Best part is, it's got Rebar Holders built into the sections so you can set the grade with rebar stakes and lock it down before embedding it in concrete. You still want a slight dip down from the doorway to the drain, but it doesn't need to be much - 1/8" to 1/4" you can muscle a pallet jack over.
For heavy traffic areas like that loading door they sell galvanized steel frames for over the top to hold cast iron traffic grates. You set the plastic trench drain about an inch deeper to make room for the steel load frame, and allow extra width for the concrete bedding on both sides.
The rubber threshold is a nice idea, but you'll be damaging it a lot, and cussing at it even more.
I have to do this at home on a double garage door... But I have to wait till I core the curb and bring the drain line in, so I know the depth of trench at the out-flow end - it needs to be flow-through from the front yard at the other end, and I can't waste any fall.
If you need to stop the last few drops, you put a rubber sweep on the bottom of the roll-up door - which magically moves up and out of the way when you open the door.
Nope, it becomes more than simple permission when you put it on paper -- all sorts of contractual rights become implied and it establishes something of a tenancy/occupancy right which must be terminated under the appropriate process required by your local laws...
As others have suggested, a proper trench drain located in front of the doors -- not a plastic one but a proper commercial grade one with the cast iron or steel cover plate for the trench as you wouldn't want to hear a loud *crunch* when you drive over it with your forklift...
Won't be cheap but it would solve your issue once and for all...
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