I am covering a patio with bricks, laid in sand. In order to cut starter
bricks and to follow a curve, I need to cut about 20 bricks along the short
dimension (4"). These are "split pavers", 1 1/4" thick.
I have a 7" circular saw. Can I use this saw to cut brick and what kind of
blade should I use?
I think there is a saw for this, but the way I've done it is with a
brick chisel. Wide blade. Cut a grove, and then break at the grove,
like you do when cutting glass tubing. If you screw up, bricks are
I just did a similar (but smaller project, I only had to cut about 10)
I used a segmented dry diamond blade (because I have had it for ~ 20
years) in my Milwaukee worm drive.
It was dusty & dirty ....plus it left my saw pretty dirty as well.
I could have used a helper w/ a vac or set up a hose with duct tape but
I only had about 10 to do.
If you've got a "beater" saw so not to use your "nice" one it would be
better. I non-segmented blade is less likely to chip out the edge of
the cut......but it is patio brick not kitchen tiles.
I don't remember if I cut from both sides (it's only a 6" blade) or I
just cheated & tapped the brick to break in along the cut.
A diamond blade will make short work of these bricks......my HD has a
pretty good selection (wide price range) of diamond blades.
Alternatively you could rent a wet saw.....no dust, just wet messy :)
be prepared to handle brick colored water, that they tend to spray
I'm in the process of installing brick walks right now, around 2700 bricks
worth. I just finished a kiva style fireplace made from pumice brick and
fire brick. I bit the bullet and bought a Harbor Freight wet saw for
around $190. It has performed brilliantly and saved me a lot of headaches
so I think I've gotten my money's worth. That being said, for only 20
bricks, I wouldn't buy it. For 3500, it was a no brainer. You can get dry
blades for your circular saw that will work just fine. A wide chisel and
hammer will work as well for simple cuts. Just beware, brick will create a
lot of dust being cut dry so anticipate cleaning your saw thoroughly
afterwards. As well, they contain silica dust when cut dry so you really
should wear a mask.
On Tue, 11 Jul 2006 18:47:22 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Try these chisels for just a couple dozen bricks. They're cheap and
Wet saws will get you along more quickly if you have 1,000 bricks to
shape, but they start at $200.
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Dry Wet Concrete and Masonry Saw blade in my Black and Decker Hand
Rotary saw. I cut about forty paving stones square and at angles for the
driveway, lots of dust until I sprinkled a little water on the work
I made a wooden holder a bit like a mitre box to hold the stone and
clamped it in a Workmate.
I was surprised at how easy it was apart from the noise and stone dust.
For your quantity, go to a hardware store and buy a masonry blade for a
dollar or two. They are a bonded abrasive disc about 1/8" thick - sort of
like a thin grinding wheel. Cut outside, they throw lots of dust.
Be sure the one you get is for masonry, similar ones are available for metal
Buy two or even three. They wear out that fast.
You need some sort of backstop. Even a 1x2 screwed flat onto
a chunk of plywood will do.
The dust is hell on the circular saw's bearings. Don't do this with an
expensive wormdrive. A spraybottle with some water would probably
help. My cheap skilsaw has significant slop in its bearings now.
The scraping of the saw shoe on brick will make you cringe.
A dust mask is critical.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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