Come on Terry......give us a little more to work with.
Cooling a house from 90F to 70F means bringing all the contents of the
house (interior of the insulation, if there is any) from 90F to 70F
AND cooling & condensing the water vapor in the air as well.
BTW 70F is way too cold 74 to 76F with adequate humidity reduction
is a more reasonable temp.
How big is the house? How big is the AC? What's the temp & humidity
outside? Are talking Phoenix or Atlanta? What's the sun exposure of
the house? Shade trees?
Eight hours to go from 90F to 77F doesn't seem too unreasonable.
If you've owned this house for any length of time your should already
know the AC performance.
I disagree. 20 minutes per degree +/- seems reasonable to me. I'm
pretty sure our central A/C could accomplish that. Since he's trying
to get a 20 degree drop, six or seven hours wouldn't be out of line.
His system is apparently going a bit slower than that, but isn't out
of range if it's humid or if he has lots of windows and it's a sunny
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you want to look at leaking ducting and insulation issues..if there
has not been any additions to the house and the central system was
installed with the correct size for your house and its not leaking
freon.. then duct leak and insulation may be the problem
Ok you set your air how you want it and I'll set mine how I want it deal?
It was 83 here today and I had the fan on in the attic and the windows
open and was very comfortable. So I guess no, I don't need to be chilled
down to a friggin ice cube to be happy. Don't bother replying, I won't
#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007
#1 Usenet Asshole, March 2007
- The coil? Lol you crack me up, who is going to measure that besides
- And yes the difference is between being hot out and cool inside, 10
- degrees should be the max,
I measure mine. Pretty simple way to make sure your unit is working
correctly. (just one of many checks)
Insert the temp probe before the filter, then insert the temp probe in
a output duct right after coil box. I use this device, when I'm not
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