I do a lot of amateur repairs but I only post when I'm
clueless at the start of the job - so I apologize if
what I post is all known to you already.
Since you're knowledgeable in this, may I ask YOU how
you would have obtained the leverage to spin that
corroded nipple off with just the tools I had at hand?
DD post a LOT of volume....quite a lot, he posts as "facts or answers"
which are clearly wrong.
He has a history of NOT taking advice from VERY experienced users of
this group and dragging them out with a never ending flow of
"wrongness" masquerading as fact.
You've probably missed most of the threads he's started....
They begin with questions but then evolve into "lectures of
experimental results presented by the class dunce"
Reminiscent "frogs with no legs cannot hear"
I would suggest this instead....
Please do not post to a.h.r "established facts" when they are really
just what you believe to true based on a single event & no real
Besides I have hard time letting go the fact the DDD "topped" a 50+
year old oak because it blocked his view. :(
And that he is an ultimately slow learner who spends his time posting
drivel rather than learning....
On Wed, 3 Apr 2013 05:09:42 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
That's good. It's just another joint to leak or fail. Removing the
P-trap is child's play, and when you're there you can get a snake into
the stub and waste line. Despite you sister's experience with
eggshells in the trap, most stoppages I've seen are in that stub or
below at a turn. See the sludge in there? Probably the most
horizontal waste pipe in the house.
They call all fittings with plastic/nylon washers compression fittings
now, because they call the connecting nut a compression nut and it
compresses the washer to make a seal.
So I don't think that term is reserved for tubing.
Strength mainly. If you could get under the cabinet floor to put some
blocks there to brace the floor, you could use a jack on the wrench.
Discretion needed Don't want to break anything.
Since you won't be reusing the threads hitting the stub head-on with a
hammer repeatedly can help break up the dope or rust keeping it frozen
in.. Again, discretion needed. If it's really a cast iron T don't
hammer. All I've seen is steel pipe/T's for sink lines.
If the T shows movement, don't hammer.
And there's always the danger of causing one of the other T joints to
leak even just wrenching unless you can get an opposing wrench on the
T, which you can't do without opening the wall.
I recommend just staying with the Fernco.
And lastly, WD-40 is not penetrating oil. You need something like PB
Blaster or Kroil. And give it a lot more than 10 minutes, perhaps an
hour and if that doesn't work a second treatment leaving it overnight.
My guess is a plumber would use Kroil. S/he would wait 10 minutes and
if it that didn't work, would use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut a
slit (or maybe two slits) in the nipple so it could be crushed and removed.
Clearly DD bob k doesn't know the answer (so why does he reply?).
A bottle jack, on top of a support that spread out the force so that the cabinet
was protected would have provided more leverage.
Strategically placed BFH blows might also have worked.
However most plumbers would have done exactly what you did, only without the
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