How do you remove condensation from a double pane window?

Hi All,

How do you remove condensation from a double pane window? Goes away in the summer; comes back in the winter.

-T

Reply to
T
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Seals have corroded and leaked in moist air. Do not know if you could dry out and reseal yourself and I read that air is replaced with inert gas. There are professionals that advertise they can do it. Personally, my house is 45 years old and I replaced all the windows. Not cheap and I got the best with lifetime warranty. Lowered my cooling and heating bills.

Reply to
invalid unparseable

Find leak. Draw vacuum, inject inert gas. seal.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Your fix reminds me of one I saw for how to swap out the engine and transmission in a Porsche.

"Select a good quality 10mm wrench. Use the box end to carefully loosen and remove the negative battery terminal from the battery (this is the black one)...being careful not to let the other end of the wrench touch the positive (red) terminal which will cause a spark, short circuit and give you a shock.

Next, carefully loosen and remove all bolts, fasteners, mounts, linkages, wires and hoses attaching the engine and transmission to the chassis after which you then can easily remove both of them.

Reinstallation and reassembly is the reverse."

Reply to
Wade Garrett

Yes, accuracy matters.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

It is like replacing the timing belt on a 97 Prelude. The first thing they point you to in the shop manual is "remove engine". When I watched the dealer do it they didn't remove the engine but they did remove the motor mount bolts and other stuff allowing them to tilt the engine (driver side) up about 20-30 degrees. I went back when they said it should be ready and that was what I saw. It was the best $1000 bucks I ever spent on a car repair. I bet they didn't know what was involved or they would have quoted it higher. I think they believed it was just like a Civic where you take out the wheel well.

Reply to
gfretwell

My windows came with a lifetime warranty. I've had one leak in

10 (+) years. I read them the numbers off the sticker on the window and they built/sent me a new sash, free of charge.
Reply to
Marilyn Manson

I was afraid of that.

Reply to
T

My new windows, including three sliders, are much better even containing the reflective coating that keeps heat in and out. Plus the old were wood requiring painting and some of the sills were rotting. It has been several years and no seals have leaked. Builder of house, as builders do, had put in cheapest window he could find. Since they came without screens I had storm windows over them. Now replaced with no storm windows they are better than original as reflected with lower heating and cooling bills.

Reply to
invalid unparseable

My 1950's built house had single pane wood windows and triple track aluminum storms/screens.

I replaced them all with double pane vinyl with built in screens. It's pure joy to be able to just open the windows to let the breeze in instead of dealing with the up and down of the storms and screens.

The lifetime warranty give us peace of mind.

Reply to
Marilyn Manson

Marilyn Manson snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news:348213bb-61c0- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Reminds me I had a similar experience.

About 17 years ago, I replaced all the aluminum windows in my 1978 built home with Milgard double pane 'e-glass' windows. There were three sliders and I think 11 other large and small windows (bedrooms, bathrooms, family room, den, kitchen bay, etc). About 12 years later, many of the bedroom, bathroom, family room and den windows leaked out the e-glass gas. There was no condensation, but when looking at certain angles, the panes gave a goldish-purplish appearance. It looked irredescent. Like you, I just read the sizes off the window labes, and they made new windows at the shop, and delivered and installed for free.

Reply to
Boris

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