Yeah, I was wondering about that too. Over time it's sagged, probably more so when it was humid, etc. Depending on how much it's sagged, it may crack when you try to screw it back in. May have to push it back into place with some supports or else the new drywall screw may just pull right through.
The drywall is sagging BETWEEN the joists/rafters/trusses.
The problem is the drywall contractor cheaped out and used 1/2" drywall when they should have used 5/8".
You can drive screws until you're blue in the face and it won't help because the sag is in the open spaces where there is nothing to screw to.
At this point the drywall has taken a "set" so even if you could screw it, it would just crack and crumble.
The right way to fix it is to pull it all down and start over with the right thickness drywall, meant for ceilings.
Or, you could install a drop ceiling to hide the poor drywalling job.
Aside from several replies of it could be 1/2" instead of 5/8", a common building practice (which, I despise) is to screw/nail the edges & cheat the field of screws/nails because the hangers used adhesive on the truss chords. This makes it easier for the finishers also. The hangers don't always put enough PL on the studs. Don't shoot the messenger, just saying.
Someone mentioned about texturing. I think I may be tempted to go this route, but putting more screws in the field. You'd have to look up the appropriate number, but it's somewhere around every 8" on butt joints, and I believe every 12" in the field.
I had this problem in my own home, especially on the walls.
hen they should have used 5/8".
Nonsense. The vast majority of drywall in homes is 1/2". It depends on the joist spacing. If it's 16" OC which is common, then 1/2" is fine.
use the sag is in the open spaces where there is nothing to screw to.
Maybe, if it's on greater than 16" spacing. Or it could be that they didn't screw it correctly. Who knows what he has without someone actually looking.
, it would just crack and crumble.
That could very well be the case.
ght thickness drywall, meant for ceilings.
I sure would explore other options FIRST.
More screws aren't going to help if it's sagging between joists. If there are only ~three screws per sheet, then it's certainly the way to go. It's still not likely to be perfect because the rock has already sagged (the ripples will be smaller;).
Probably dampness as it will make it sag. Guessing. Popcorn the ceilings for a cheap way out. Here in MA going back maybe 5 years ago we now have screw inspectors here. Have to wait for them before you can finish tape or skim coat.
Have a friend hold an 8 foot long 2x6 to the ceiling, take a small floor jack and a 2x4 that extends from the jack to the board on the ceiling, and jack the drywall tight. Apply lots of screws.
Remove jack and boards, and do the same on the next sheet.
When they are all done, apply drywall compound to the screw heads and any joints that need repair. Sand, reapply compound, sand and paint.
Job done!!!!
they should have used 5/8".
the sag is in the open spaces where there is nothing to screw to.
would just crack and crumble.
thickness drywall, meant for ceilings.
And sell the place to a midget.
I just had a thought, paint the ceiling with an ocean scene using the sagging areas as waves. ^_^
Sorry, couldn't help it.
TDD
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