Honda generators

[z]

zxcvbob wrote in news: [e-mail]:

Now I don't know about the Yamaha, but I was warned by the honda techs that using synthetic in the EU series caused a problem with the low oil sensor. They were issued some tech alert from Honda == for some reason synthetic builds up in it or something causing them to fail a LOT sooner than normal.

So just make sure you use what they suggest in the manual. Nothing like a damn sensor failing that keeps you from being able to start your gen!!!

[zxcvbob]

I plugged in a hair dryer and the generator revved up a bit. Then turned on the saw, and switched off the HD as soon as the generator starting bogging. The saw started just fine. I ripped a short piece of

2x4 with it, and then shut it off. Then I tried it again with the HD on low and just left it on. The saw started right up. Probably if I ever do have to run the saw from the generator, all I need to do is plug in some lights with it (which I'll probably want to do anyway.)

I'm feeling better about this. Thanks.

Bob

[Ulysses]

Also I would recommend replacing the seal on the oil sensor as that is prone to failure. Not as bad as a stuck oil switch but still not fun.

I'm probably just not understanding your explanation but on mine there were two raised marks (lines) on the cam gear. They should line up horizontally with the top of the cylinder head _ _ If they look like those two line just to the left of this you should be at TDC.

[jack]

Thats like 7,500 hours before the first problem? Is that right?!

I have about 150 hours on mine; I guess it will last a while longer.

[z]

"jack" wrote in news:gceg26$3ut$1 @registered.motzarella.org:

One thing that might help for longevity is to use an engine injector type cleaner into the air intake and spark plug hole when you change the oil each time.

The guys at honda told me to use Ames Power Foam and run that through it a few times when you change oil. Seems like if the generator is ran under low or mid load conditions for a long time it can have buildup around the valves etc. Turn off the 'econo mode' and spray that crap in there and give it a good italian tuneup once in a while running at full throttle.

but yeah .. overall very reliable .. 150 hours yours is bearly broke in mate!

[jack]

I did a search on Ames, but didn't find anything. What is it?

[Vaughn Simon]

I don't know about that, but I follow the owner's manual to the letter. That includes getting every drop of fuel out the tank and carb (it has a special valve for that) and coating the inside of the cylinder with a bit of oil before storage. This is also a good time to change the oil. Since mine is used only for hurricane season, this engine "pickling" becomes an annual event celebrating the end of hurricane season.

[z]

"jack" wrote in news:gcen0c$b5s$1 @registered.motzarella.org:

amsoil I meant sorry

[Ulysses]

You posted this one OK.

Beats the hell out of my why that one posted. It seems my ISP no longer thought my six-letter password was adequate and changed it to eight letters. I forgot the change the password on my NG reader. It seems to be working now.

[Ulysses]

Well, aside from changing the oil religiously another problem they have is with the starting rope. It is routed around some stuff and it can wear out after a few thousand hours. I coated the wear point with a little 5-Minute Epoxy and that seemed to help it last longer. In order to replace the pull rope you have to remove all of the red plastic and that can be difficult--one of the top (handle) screws on mine was so stuck I had to drill it out and one of the bottom bolts stripped.

Actually 7500 hours was the *last* problem. It barely runs now since the oil splasher gear broke and was replaced. I just dragged it out of it's tomb and tried using it with my electric chain saw because it is still the most easily portable genny I have that can run the saw. It shuts down the inverter when on Eco Throttle but seems OK when Eco is off. It burns oil and the oil turns black after only an hour or two. I used to change the oil about every 60 hours (I think) and it was still transparent.

[Ulysses]

I've read many times about people using water in both fuel injected and carburated engines. I finally tried it on my old '78 F350 (carburated, of course) before I took it for it's last smog test. I did some other things too but the emissions were significantly lower. I just dribbled some water into the carb while it was running and the engine barely noticed it. It seemed like a dumb idea to put water in the engine but it seems to have helped. I also put some water in my new *free* Mitsubishi Mighty Max. It also has a carburator. Is this case I had nothing to lose as it was an abandoned vehicle and I have not yet spent one cent on it. When I got it the engine was froze and the throttle was so frozen that I could not move it with a hammer! I ended up using hydrochloric acid to losen up the butterfly valves. In any case I did a compression test and one of the cylinders has low compression with slow build-up so I guess the water didn't help. Even so It'll make it up my 4WD ONLY hill on 3 1/2 cylinders ;-D

I've had very good results on several engines by adding some Sta-Bil to the last little bit of gas and then running it out of gas and then draining the carb and spraying with carb cleaner. I too completely empty the tank. And the other thing I always forget to mention is to pull the starter rope until you get resistance so the valves are closed while in storage.

[Forger]

Forger had written this in response to

:

Hey z let me pick your bra> I've used eu2000s for a lot of years. I've had failures after 3-4 > years

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[z]

f0rger_at_hotmail_dot [e-mail] (Forger) wrote in news:4943fe04$0$26101$ [e-mail]:

Hmm.. not really off the top of my head. Are you sure its burning the oil? Like how much does it use? Could it be leaking from a bad seal on the crank case or something? I don't see how they could run smoothly and be totally 180 degrees off TDC or something .. but I'm not an uber guru (paging Ullyses).

I got off my arse and scanned the engine chapter in the repair manual. Have a look through that and make sure what you did matches that. I should have scanned this ages ago --

Just click the PDF listed there.

Now Honda will probably take me to court but i'll take the risk :)

Best of luck

-zachary

[Forger]

Forger had written this in response to

:

Wow thanks for the service pages :) Yeah I am now wondering if I got it 180 off, I know I did have to push that cam down under the spring pressure now that I think about it to get the belt on. It never smoked or used oil before this, and tonight I had to add oil again, and no its not leaking but I see the muffler is actually wet with oil. I am really at a loss here, seems like it has to be the valves or piston involved in burning oil. Unless it has something to do with oil sucking through the vent hose? I wonder if being 180 off would cause suction or something there?

------------------------------------- z wrote:

ng? I don't see how they could run smoothly

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[James Sweet]

What sort of crankcase ventilation does it use? In my car that hose got kinked and it went through several quarts of oil before I figured out what was going on.

[ds549]

i dont think 180 out on cam is a problem,because if you turn the crank another revolution its going to be in time like the book says. ive seen guys dabble some silicone on the oil pan and leak,an oil free surface and a bead of sealANT THAT SQUISHES OUT A LITTLE IS BEST. rings,valve seal , crankcase ventilation or oil leak cause oil loss. those honda black engines are about as cheep made as you can get with that plastic camshaft setup.

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[Forger]

Forger had written this in response to

:

Ut oh... I didnt seal up the valve cover... Im now w> i dont think 180 out on cam is a problem,because if you turn the

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[Ulysses]

It just has a hose going from the crankcase to the air filter. It's unlikely that it's clogged but you could blow a little air through it to be sure.

There are two raised indentations on the timing gear. They should be horizontal and lined up with the top of the engine case while the piston is at TDC. Pull out the spark plug and turn the engine until the piston is at the top.

Was your oil splasher/governor gear broken? If so then I'd say your piston/cylinder did not recieve enough lubrication and it's now too worn to seal against oil. That little plastic gear seems to be what does in these engines. I supspect that if you do a compression check you'll find the pressure is low.

I may not be able to connect again until next spring--when it rains my phone line goes out :-|

Good luck.