Homemade Depth Stop For Drill

[DerbyDad03]

The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:

I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right length.

Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)

[Jon Danniken]

Nice build, looks more fancy than the one I made with a chunk of wood and a washer.

Jon

[Tekkie®]

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

Not to criticize but why didn't you just use a proper size drill for the countersink and mark it with tape?

[DerbyDad03]

You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right

By "proper size drill" I assume you mean "proper sized *bit*".

Assuming my assumption is correct, why don't you think I used the proper sized bit? The bit shown in the image I posted is part of a set that includes the bit and the countersink.

093130

Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told* me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible, tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.

With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basicall y eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finishe d drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.

[Tekkie®]

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

Okay enough of your nit picking crap...

Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape to provide the countersink?

They are called screw buttons.

So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you just use a dowel?

[DerbyDad03]

...ignored...

Why would I use one bit to drill the screw hole and a different bit to make the counter sink? That seems just a tad inefficient to me when one tool can do it one step.

I have already explained the reason for the depth stop vs. the tape. You can go back and read that again if you would like.

No, they are called plugs. Buttons have a domed top and the top extends above the surface of the wood. Plugs sit flush with the surface of the wood . I am using plugs, cut from the same wood using a plug cutter. Once the grai n is aligned and the finish is applied, the plugs just about disappear.

Nope. If you read what I wrote above, it should all be quite clear by now.

Because a plug cutter will cut a tapered plug from the same wood, perfectly sized for the countersink bit that was used and (almost) perfectly matched to the surrounding wood.

[dpb]

On 08/07/2016 7:22 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: ...

...

Have you seen ?

Look familiar? :)

Just happened to notice in the newly-arrived Woodcraft catalog in "New Products" last night after noticing this thread earlier in day...

[notbob]

Yeah, but does it work any better than putting masking tape on the drill bit?

nb

[DerbyDad03]

$25 for theirs vs. $10 for mine, but that adjustable depth stop for the counter sink could be sweet when different depth counter sinks are required.

Mine is kind of limited (no pun intended) in that respect. Of course, at $0.50 a repair coupling, I could make a whole bunch of depth stops before I've spent that additional $15. ;-)

Thanks for the link...I'll keep it in mind.

[dpb]

It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop any 'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little grain or ones attention is distracted by an external event or whatever...it may not be critical in this application; occasionally a "blowout" on the other side may be the result and end up ruining a workpiece.

[DerbyDad03]

Well, at least *somebody* gets it! ;-)

In this case it was a delicate balance between making the countersink deep enough to hold the plugs and preventing the screw from blowing out the face of the bed rail. I could have shopped for 1/4" shorter screws, but I had the longer screws on hand and it was easier to make the stop than to run to store.

I mic'ed it after the screws were in and I was pretty damn close to a blow out. I hope the wood doesn't shrink. ;-)

[Terry Coombs]

I got it right away ... but then I worked in cabinet shops for about 20 years .

[DerbyDad03]

Some did, some didn't. We won't mention any names. ;-)

[Tekkie®]

Tekkie® posted for all of us...

Okay you didn't mention using plug cutters earlier.

[DerbyDad03]

Hmmm, I w "The next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes."

[Tekkie®]

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

IDK, you tell me.

[Tekkie®]

Oren posted for all of us...

Xactly