Hanging a heavy bag

I have an 80lb or so heavy bag. We just finished a bonus room upstars with painted ceilings and 7 foot ceilings. I was trying to figure the best way to mount it. I will be punching and kicking it. Will this jolting cause problems with my sheetrock or anything? The mounts I see at the store use two lag bolts to screw into a rafter. This holds a bracket that the bag hangs on.

I woul dlike the mount to be as invisable as possible because the wife is not too thrilled about seing anything.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Reply to
Don
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From experience, you need to get *anything* heavier than 60lbs or so into a beam... If you're a real wiz with tools, drill a hole through your ceiling to the joist, then have a pin go through the joist(horizontally) and have your chain/whatever hooking on that... (you'd want some sort of sleeve on the hole through the ceiling to avoid rub damage). I've currently got a 4 inch screw-in that goes through the ceiling and into a joist... not bad, but I've had it come right out(as in rip itself out of the wood) due to jarring...

Good luck, P.

Ps.. I use beam/joist interchangeably, 'cause I know d$ck about carpentry... :P

Reply to
Philippe

No way you can do this without strengthening your joists, unless you have a centre beam.

If you just put leg bolts into the joist every good kick will wreck joints in the drywall. You have to run supports between the joists and lock the entire cealing together. If you can access your attic this won't be very tough. But it will take some wood.

You may want to get a metal brace made with a swivel hook through it to run between two joists, brace those joists so three joists are tied together for a good section of the span and then put a circular recessed lighting type of thing into the ceiling and hook through the empty hole. The diameter has to be low enough it can swing.

But I have one down in my basement running through a centre beam and the entire house shakes when I use.

Reply to
Keith Hobman

Keith,

Do you have any specific protocols for strengthening joists? Are joists tonic or phasic and does that have implications for their training? How should I work my joist strengthening into my overall yearly plan? Should it be periodized and, if so, how?

Lyle

Reply to
Lyle McDonald

Haven't you been listening Lyle? Of course you periodize it.

First you use hot water. Then you use cold water.

I will be here all ze week.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

2x4 comes to mind. As in the wood.

Phasic of course. Everything has inmplications, but you'll have to buy my book "Strengthening Joists the Eastern bloc Way" to find out how. Available from me for the low price of $149.99 Canadian.

This is the 'Hammer Strength' approach. Different book, same great introductory price.

See above. If interested you can get BOTH books at the one-time low price of $349.99.

Because its you, man. Or anyone else for that matter.

HTH.

Reply to
Keith Hobman

i'm feeling the love right now. Hot Canadian love.

Lyle

Reply to
Lyle McDonald

Unless you are sure you will center the lag bolts on the rafters, I would bolt a 2x4 or 2x6 across 2 rafters using 2 bolts on each end, paint the board the same color as ceiling, then bolt the plate onto the 2x4 or 2x6.

Reply to
omegazero2003

You can do this outside the drywall - on top of the drywall placing a 2x6 across 2 rafters (using 6" lags into the joists), painting the board then bolting the bracket to the 2x6.

Reply to
omegazero2003

Use your search engine for info on how to hang a sex swing. The dynamics are similar.

-B

Reply to
B

Jeez, she helps you out with your bonus room, and now you want to hang and beat her? BTW, 80lbs isn't that heavy, you sure she isn't anorexic?

Reply to
Elvis Parsley

When you kick a heavy bag you are loading the joist with far more than the weight of the bag. What do you suggest would distribute the load to more than one joist if not bracing?

Reply to
Keith Hobman

I just screwed a 1/2" (universal swivel) hook bolt into the center of the joist. it is easy to hang and remove. and when I am not hitting the bag my wife hangs her plant from it. it has worked fine for over 15 years. and NO complaints from the wife about vibrations or shaking of the house. (not from the hitting the bag anyway)

Reply to
Kitchens Inc.

Yes it is more than the weight of just the bag, but is it enough to cause unacceptable deflection? Is it enough to cause total failure? Depends upon all the parameters but in most all cases I'd say no.

First off what are you trying to accomplish by distributing the load? You have yours mounted to the central beam of your home correct? What's the size of that beam? Lets say it's a 6x10 solid timber beam, so that's the lumber equavalent of (4) 2x10s. The solid timber is going to be stronger than 4 seperate joists ganged together. So when you mention bracing joists together my reply is why? There's maybe some miscommunication about what the bracing is going to do. It will not significantly reduce deflection (bending of the joist). It could however reduce the shear force by spreading it out to other joists. If the bag is hung at one point then your static load is going to be straight down. Hitting or kicking the bag will cause shearing stress (lateral deformation) but since it's hung from a chain that helps reduce some of the shearing force into deflection (bending). Also keep in mind that there already probably is some "bracing" in the form of T&G subfloor (if there's a floor above) and gypsum board (if the ceiling is finished). Also, unsually both ends of the joist will be nailed to a rim joists, which acts as a form of bracing (though it serves other purposes too).

The shaking you experience is vibration caused by deflection (within acceptable limits). I have a steel W6 beam that runs down the center of my house. One end of my joists bares on the exterior wall and the other on the center beam, and then from the beam to the opposite exterior wall are other joists. When I jump up and down on one side of the house and it's felt on the other that doesn't mean that it's not braced properly. The vibration is just being passed through the floor system (and the walls and ceiling to a small extent). The amount of bracing (and other special construction) required to totally eliminate this would be insane (better would be a concrete slab, which is very good in deflection, but piss poor is torsion). Stand on a bridge as a car drives over it, you can feel it (ignore the audible sound and wind). Obviously the bridge is braced very well but yet you can feel a small car drive over it but yet it's still strong enough to support the weight of a bunch of full loaded semis stopped on it during rush hour.

A better avenue to persue would be a vibration isolator (also called isolation mount) that is used to reduce the transmission of vibration and noise to the supporting structure. Or even some form of resilient mounting "that permits surfaces to vibrate normally without transmitting the vibratory motions and associated noise to the supporting structure" (as quoted from "A Visual Dictionary of Architecture", Francis D.K. Ching - p232)

Clear as mud?

Michael

Reply to
Spammers_Should_Be_Shot

Nope. Sounds reasonable. I personally don't have a problem with vibration as I only train on the bag when no one is home. I assumed in an upper room it would wreck the drywall. Apparently I assumed RONG.

Won't be the last time. You learn something new everyday.

:^)

Reply to
Keith Hobman

Because the loading on a single joist will allow the lateral joist deflection to crack the drywall.

Think about that. If the vibration is at an undesirable level, then the structure isn't stiff enough against the loading.

Actually, it will substantially reduce the vibration transmission, because the part of the structure the bag is acting on will be substantially heavier and and stiffer.

Keith never said that you'd break joists, so this is a red herring. I wouldn't worry about failure of a joist (unless the joist is already cracked, or the fastener compromises the bottom fibers of the joist, which are loaded in tension. The real issue is cracking of sheet rock.

Untrue. Ganging 2x10's produces a structure that is stronger than a solid timber, because cracks and checks in one piece don't propagate into its neighbors. A solid timber will deflect less laterally, but not in the intended load direction.

One reason would be to limit lateral deflection of a joist, which could crack the ceiling. Another reason would be to increase the effective mass of the structure the bag bears upon.

You're thinking simplistically. Bending of the joist in a vertical plane is probably not the issue here. In the lateral direction, ganging joists will substantially reduce deflection.

Shear? Away from the walls, shear is not important. Lateral load is still largely a bending load, as far as a joist is concerned.

A chain may (or may not) reduce the lateral load (depends on dynamics), but that doesn't change the fact that you could crack the ceiling with a strong kick if the bag is hung from a single joist. I'd suggest spanning 3 joists, personally.

Over the long haul, gypsum board will not help with this kind of loading. It will gladly crack to relieve such loading.

That may or may not help. Joists, studs, ring beams, etc. all move somewhat relative to one another, so some motion could occur that cracks sheetrock.

Please tell me what kind of vibration isolator will damp kicks to a heavy bag.

Reply to
Wayne S. Hill

got it:

inertial dampener

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To read more.

Lyle

Reply to
Lyle McDonald

But where can you buy one?

Reply to
Lee Michaels

Put some money in an interest generating bank account. Get a time machine. Travel to the 24th century (or whenever "Enterprise" is set, I'm assuming that would be roughly when the inertial dampener had been perfected sinec Scott Bakula is still alive). Buy one with the money from the interest bearing account.

Lyle

Reply to
Lyle McDonald

That's about what it would take to damp a heavy bag.

Reply to
Wayne S. Hill

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