On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 08:18:53 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
If there was a sink right outside the door of that room it would still
be considered a bathroom because the code says "area". It is not
uncommon in McMansions to have a sink and vanity outside the room
where the toilet and shower is. (similar to what you see in a hotel)
The whole area is the bathroom.
On Feb 8, 12:03 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Trust me, this house is a far cry from a McMansion!
The only sink in the "area" was a utility sink on the opposite side of
the basement. You'd have to consider the whole basement as the
bathroom for the NEC to consider that room a bathroom.
Now, while I was replacing the toilet and shower I did remove the
bathroom walls, so for a short period of time that whole section of
the basement was one room, which included the utility sink, so I guess
it was a bathroom per the NEC while the walls were down.
I wonder if they care that the "bathroom" had a fridge, furnace,
washer, dryer, storage shelves, TV, ironing board, etc. etc. etc. in
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 11:17:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
That is not really an issue then since the only required receptacle in
a bathroom is the one near the basin and now all receptacles close to
a sink of any kind has to be GFCI. You are not required to make this
20a since this is not a bathroom. If the sink was right outside the
water closet door it might be called a bathroom. .
re: "That is not a proper bathroom either"
Tell that to my town...
Once again it shows that local assessment codes have nothing to do
with NEC/plumbing/other codes.
As per my town, any 2 fixtures is a 1/2 bath, even if by plumbing code
it's not a "proper bath".
OK, let me belabor this point. There is a toilet and a sink in an area
of 7 sq. ft. There is no place to plug in a radiator. The only place to
put the outlet is in the same electrical box as the light switch. The
light is already wired with 14/2 and the ceiling is closed.
I can break the code in one of three ways:
1. Put two circuits in one electrical box (15amp and 20amp)
2. Have only one 20 amp circuit with 14/2 wire running to the light
3. Use a 15amp GFCI outlet.
I'm thinking of going for #3.
re: "There is a toilet and a sink in an area of 7 sq. ft. "
I've got a tiny sink in my basement bathroom - 15" x 12", which 1.25
My toilet is 31" x 18" which is 3.875 sq ft.
That means you have 7 - (3.875 + 1.25) = 1.875 sq ft of "open space"
Do you have to pull your pants up in the hallway?
The OP (me) has a 20 amp GFCI breaker for the garage circuit in the
The overload tripping the GFCI breaker is so infrequent that it is hard
to pin down what happened to cause the breaker to trip.
Maybe the refrigerator and freezer happen to be running at the same time
that I use the garage door opener, but if it did, I would know
immediately since I wouldn't be able to close the door. . Nothing else
in the garage is running all the time nor is anything plugged in that
automatically starts and stops, other than the refrigerator and the
freezer. Absent that knowledge, I would just like to be able to reset
the circuit without having to make a trip to the basement to reset the
I already have a solution to warn me when the breaker has tripped. The
garage door wired opener with the red light being moved to inside the
abode, as mentioned in an earlier thread.
I think I may buy a power strip for each of the three outlets in the
garage, and when the circuit is overloaded, the tripped breaker in that
power strip will let me know where the problem is.
That approach of finding the overload will work IF it happens that a
major short or overload of some kind is happening at whatever happens
to be plugged into the one particular strip that may trip. But
it's not going to tell you if the sum total of ALL the loads
everywhere on the circuit is just exceeding 20 amps. To do that with
your approach, you'd have to have a 20 amp power strip and plug ALL
the loads into the one strip.
As I suggested previously, I'd start by getting a Kill-a-Watt or an
amp meter and measuring what each of the various loads on that circuit
is pulling to determine if any one is out of range. Also, again, if
it's the STARTING current from the fridge that's tripping it, changing
the breaker to a delay type may solve the problem. And if it's one
appliance, like a freezer that is pulling way too much, the solution
may be to replace it with a new one which could use $100 or more a
year LESS electricity and pay for itself.
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