I have a 30x30 garage/shop. I have an idea to paint the concrete floor a beige eppoxy then put a 3 foot tall borger or "splash guard" around the wall of tile. Maybe using a "checkered" pattern of beige and white
12x12 tiles.
Or painting the floor an epoxy gray and just using gray tiles/ (No checkered pattern).
I know I have seen these wall tiles in a garage but did a search to show my wife and came up empty. (She cant envision waht I am talkign about).
What do you guys think?
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L
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
stryped fired this volley in news:13c3b8d0-aa57- snipped-for-privacy@u21g2000yqc.googlegroups.com:
Unless you use real grouted tile, and seal the grout lines, I don't think you'll like tile as your "splash guard".
I think if I were doing a wet-area floor, I'd form up on the wall a ways, and pour/trowel/porridge a spooned corner 'basin' all around, then just paint the whole thing with one of those stippled epoxy enamels.
Doing spooned corners will make cleanup SO much easier that you'll never regret it.
Chemical mixing areas are often done with a composite/epoxy type mud with spooned corners for hose washdown. Just put a floor drain at the lowest point in the room.
LLoyd
J
Jeff The Drunk
That's a better idea. And a painted floor is going to be slippery, at least mine was.
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stryped
I am not exactly sure what you are talking about put the tile I am talkign about is the comercial VCP that is put on with adhesive. It is also used on comercial floors. (Such as Wal Mart, etc).
G
Glenn Lyford
Vinyl, sometimes referred to as linoleum...? --Glenn Lyford
S
stryped
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Lloyd E. Sponenburgh
stryped fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@x3g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
I'm familiar with Vinyl Composite flooring; have laid hundreds of square yards of it over the years. It has excellent wear resistance on concrete, and decent water resistance IF COMPLETELY SEALED, and KEPT sealed always.
It will peel up like potato chips if water gets under it via the gaps between tiles; thus the requirement for sealing. It does not perform well on wood substrates, because it's somewhat brittle, and doesn't comply well with irregularities in the surface, or swelling of the underlayment.
If you're willing to seal it (about five to eight good coats of an acrylic emulsion sealer), and "service" it about every six months to a year, it'll be fine.
For a washdown area, though, it's not a recommended flooring. Seamless goods with cove barriers or a poured/painted composite are preferrable. Since seamless sheet goods don't come stock in 30' widths, you're stuck with the other options.
Were I you, and wanted to doll up a slab floor, I'd just grind it and seal it with urethane or acrylic. Concrete that's been finished like that looks great -- almost like terrazzo.
LLoyd
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salty
Vinyl and linoleum are two different things.
H
hrhofmann
What did you do about your 2 1/4 flooring??????
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stryped
This is not a "washdown area" Just an area that may get wet when I spray out the garage. I just want it to look nice.
The 2 1/4 flooring has not arrived yet.
What do you guys think of the pattern idea?
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stryped
By the way, I am not wanting to tile the floor, just 3 feet of the wall.
T
Tony
(Deleted metalworking newsgroup)
I wasn't sure they still made linoleum but here it is, in rolls not just tiles!
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whit3rd
What kind of wall surface? Easiest would be to get the melamine panel material (used for low-end shower stall construction) as your splashguard, top with a wood molding and seal against the floor with a vinyl base molding.
For a shop, I wouldn't consider vinyl wall coverings; a vertical surface in polymer supports flame LOTS more than a floor covering.
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hrhofmann
You still didn't tell us how you finished your "inside the house" flooring that you were posting about last week!!
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stryped
I said previosuly the wood is coming this week. It will be awhile before I start that one.
No one ever commented on what they thought of the look of my origional idea.
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