Garage Door Opener quit working

Sort of. It still works with the door button, but I have two remotes with good batteries that won't program. It's a 7 year old Chamberlin/liftmaster and the remote is 373LM. Suggestions?

Reply to
A Mooose in Love
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Did the remotes ever work? There are a couple of different protocols.

Reply to
gfretwell

yes, but over the last 6 or so months the primary became intermittent. I've never used the other one

Reply to
A Mooose in Love

Presumably, you have just ONE door? I.e., don't have a second opener on which you can test the remote?

Is that the remote that handles *3* doors?

If so, have you tried programming buttons other than the "first"? I.e., in case the actual "button" has worn out?

Are you getting any tactile feedback from the button? I.e., does it have the same "click" and "feel" as the others?

Have you tried erasing all the codes from the opener and then trying to program? I.e., is the problem in the remote or in the opener?

Does the opener do ANYTHING when you attempt the programming sequence? I.e., does it "see" that you've activated the remote (even if it is rejecting the programming operation)?

Is the antenna wire visible in the opener?

Reply to
Don Y

My garage door opener never quits working. I either lift the door up, or pull it down, and my hands always work! :)

I've never had a power door opener, but I believe they have a switch on the motor device to change the frequency. That's so the neighbor's remotes dont open YOUR door.

Maybe that switch got bumped and needs to be reset.

Reply to
Paintedcow

Even spring breaks?, LOL! That is called arm strong opener....

Reply to
Tony Hwang

My garage door opener never quits working either, except when she goes to visit her mother.

Reply to
Micky

no second opener

yes

yes

yes

erased all codes and then tried the "learn" process again with no luck

I get no light flash or click

yes, tried several times moving it around with no improvement

Reply to
A Mooose in Love

This is a long shot but my garage door openers act very stupid when they have CFL or LED bulbs in them. Maybe try it with incandescents?

Reply to
Leisure Suit Larry

That was old-fashioned when I got an opener in about 1996. That one had

12-position DIP switches on remote & opener to set the code. Later, they went to "rolling codes" and the opener would learn the remote.
Reply to
Sam E

Owners manual will help. No manual? Download one. Ones with limit switches are pretty old models. New ones are either done with adjusting pots or by software pushing couple switches. Even motor is DC driven (small but more torque) Remote also is now spread spectrum rolling code, even syncs. with your car.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

I took the CFL out and replaced it with an incandescent, solved the problem of that light not working properly, but didn't improve anything else. I'm pretty much of the opinion that something on some circuit is broken which probably means it's beyond my repair expertise. I'm thinking of going to the big box and getting a new universal remote to try and if that doesn't work I'll think about using this

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Reply to
A Mooose in Love

this is the owners manual and I don't see any mention of the ability to change the frequency

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manual

Reply to
A Mooose in Love

ok I've gotta ask. How did you pick your name "A Moose in Love"?

Reply to
Muggles

I stole it from a troll, seemed to have the effect of killing the troll

Reply to
A Mooose in Love

Was that the guy who kept calling you a stupid blooming idiot?

oh, hey, someone call for... my chest.... ouch.....

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

no, it was the guy who kept calling you a stupid blooming idiot

Reply to
A Mooose in Love

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