: > Is there a website out there that shows how to install garage
: > openers? The manual that comes with mine is hard to figure
out. I just
: > need the basics to get started on it. Thanks.
: Sounds like you'd be better served hiring someone to do it. You
: to have the skill to tackle a potentially dangerous job like
I respectfully disagree; armed with basic instructions and a diy
background, many people are capable of the installation. It's
not an inherently dangerous task unless one tries to do things
without basic knowledge/instructions.
Been there, done that; three times.
I'm sorry. Didn't the OP say he couldn't understand the instructions? And
hanging a garage door is "inherently dangerous" both during the installation
Go ahead and install it even if you can't comprehend the instructions?
The OP appears to already have the door installed and is just adding the
opener. Putting in an opener is not (IMO) "inherently dangerous."
The fact that the OP does have a problem understanding the instructions
is an indication that he may not be up to the job, but that is greatly
overweighed by the fact that he has recognized that fact and is asking for
additional information BEFORE he begins. I would rate his abilities very
high do to his recognition of his limits.
I don't see much danger in that job, unless it involves running a new
Remember they are installing an opener, not the door. Installing a door
often involves working with a set of springs that can be dangerous.
So which is it? Dangerous? Not dangerous? Is 110v. electricity dangerous?
Are those springs dangerous? Do they need tweaking? (not a job for a
newbie that can't follow the directions for putting up the opener) The
track is VERY EASY to tweak.
Tweaking, meaning minor adjustments is good.
Tweaking a straight piece of track, as in bending unintentionally, is bad.
(This is VERY easy for an inexperienced person to do while installing a GDO
by themselves.) Particularly if that person does not comprehend the
instructions. Unless you are a pro, I think it is a two person job. And it
is good for one of those people to comprehend the instructions.
Tweaking, as in adjusting garage door springs if you don't have experience
doing so, is dangerous.
And just plain tweaking will rot your brain.
If you can't read the instructions, I doubt you could hang it up safely.
Hire a pro before you kill yourself or mess up the unit.
My SIL and I installed one in about four hours. Afterward, we saw that if
we had any experience at all, it would have taken an hour. THEN I found out
that Lowe's would have installed it for $40. I told him next time he had to
do one, I would flip him for the $40.
Have it installed. If there's a problem, you merely pick up the phone.
Yeah me too, I have iunstalled a couple, PIA if you ask me.
But with installs under 50 bucks I would rather watch others do the
MAKE SURE ITS MOUNTED TO THE STUDS SOLIDLY. if not it might come down
and damage your vehicle..:(
Worst case scenario, he will get the door opener installed without any
problems, but while he tests it he is so wrapped up in his delight that he
figured out the instructions about installing it thing, but he doesn't
realize that the down force is adjusted wrong and he just brought the door
down on his child's neck with excessive downforce and the kid is pinned to
the ground suffocating but he didn't understand the instructions about
releasing the door.
On a lighter note he could bend the shit out his door....
It is a garage door opener, not a garage door. Just wanted to clear
this up. I got this from a friend who bought it years ago, but never
used it. He lost the manual. It was an old Genie. I tried finding it on
there website, but can't find the manuals there. Must have been a real
old model or something. I just need instructions since i think i'm
mechanically inclined enough. Thanks.
A Yahoo search for "how to install a garage door opener" yielded this
as one of the first hits:
You need to measure the headroom, that is, the minimum distance between
the ceiling and the highest point of the door, which you find by
opening the door partially until its to reaches maximum height. The
opener may not work if the headroom is too small, but there may be a
special low-headroom adapter to get around this.
Assemble everything on the ground and cycle it a few times to make sure
the trolley travels correctly and doesn't get jammed at one of the
extremes. Most likely you'll have to set up the optical sensor and
transmitter to make the opener close. Use only a 3-wire *GROUNDED*
outlet for power, and realize that some 3-wire outlets aren't grounded
(this may be OK, but only if the outlet is protected by a ground fault
interupter). Remember the opener will be used in a wet environment, so
you must eliminate the possibility of electric shock.
Find the center of the garage door opening and install the bracket far
enough above this so the top of the door will never touch the bottom of
the rail. The opener attaches to this and is then swung up at the
opposite end. You'll need a ladder on which the opener can sit
temporarily before its attached securely to the ceiling with metal
brackets ("L" angle). These brackets may not be included with the
opener. You'll likely need to attach 2 L angles to the beams
overhead.with 1/4" lag screws, taking care to center the screws exactly
in the beams. Decide whether the L angles should go parallel or
perpendicular to the overhead wooden beams, and measure to center the
opener in the middle of the door opening. Drill holes of proper size
to prevent splitting the beams. Then to these L angles bolt flat
pieces of steel between the opener and L-angles, using 1/4" bolts,
nuts, and lock washers. Do NOT use metal pipe strapping for this; it's
far too weak. You probably want the kind of L angle and flat steel
that has a hole about every 1/2", resembling Erector Set beams. It's
important to use lock washers since the motor vibrates a great deal and
can cause bolts to vibrate gradually loosen. In addition, a jam nut
against each nut wouldn't hurt.
The trolley arm needs to be attached to the center of the door. Some
doors have a bracket for this, but with others you may have to install
a horizontal reinforcement beam.
Openers made in the past 10-15 years are designed to not close the door
unless the optical safety beam system is installed and working.
Install this device properly since it's one of the most effective
safety devices and by far the most sensitive one. You may need to
mount the brackets on blocks of wood to let them extend pas any door
springs that sit vertically near the floor. Use special electrical
staples with cardboard insulators to attach the wiring to the wall
since regular staples will pierce the wire insulation. Normally the
ends of the wires are stripped and simply wrapped around the contact
screws at the opener, but for a neater installation you can use
crimp-on spade connectors. Install the wiring for the wall button
similarly. Secure the wiring so it can't get tangled in the
mechanism, such as with nylon wire ties, and take care not to let it
abrade against sharp metal. To protect the wiring, either cover it
with split looming, or cover the sharp edges with the looming.
The first time you operate the opener, have the trolley disengaged, in
case it jams. After attaching it to the door, adjust the opening and
closing limits for the right amount of door travel. Finally, adjust
the force settings so the opener doesn't reverse during normal
operation. You may have to increase the force as the temperature
changes and affects the springs. If the door won't open or close even
with the greatest force settings, the door mechanism may be binding, or
the springs may have to be adjusted for proper balance. When a door is
correctly balanced it will slowly fall when opened about 1/3 of the way
and released, slowly rise when opened about 2/3 of the way and
On 3 Jan 2006 22:27:10 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Contact Me at email@example.com for answers to this
anthony-- Anthony's Door Systems
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