I have a Stanley opener that is acting up. Checked the beam sensor and
they work on other door. This one will open a foot then stop, then it
may go a foot again. You can hear what sound like a relay opening and
closing coming from the main unit control board. The buttons that
control the door are disconnected. The light doesn't come on like if
the opener stops. Anybody have a guess what to check next. This
morning it worked fine. Last night and now this afternoon stopped.
I agree with Art. First make sure of proper balance (it should stay up
or down without help when disconnected) and there should be no binding
between down and up.
Next would be the clutch adjustment, see the opener manual.
The sensors should not be a problem. Only the top sensor comes into
play when the door is going up. The beams will not stop it from going up.
If the door works by hand I would suspect one or more of the plastic
parts are broken inside. Take the cover off & it should be obvious.
Also sounds like your light bulbs are burnt out, since the clicking
relay is probably the one that controls the light. The lights flash
whenever the unit goes into overload. The overload cam (on the bottom
of the drive shaft) trips a micro-switch whenever the door hits
anything or when there is too much load being put on the operator.
Parts are very difficult to find & you will be better off replacing
The door opener is acting up. The door will only go a foot or so and
stop then the next time gos the other way. Tested the beam sensor on
another opener and they worked fine. You came hear what seems to be a
relay going off and on, coming from the control board. Notice that
some times when you hear the sound, the light on the beam sensor go
off. Disconnected the wiring from the button to check for a short.
This is a Stanley opened. It may work fine a few times before actng up
Any ideas what to look at next.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Barry) wrote in message
If it works with the trolley disconnected, then see that the door
opens and closes easily and is balanced properly (should slowly fall
if 1/3 open, should slowly rise if 2/3 open). If it is, then suspect
motor capacitor (cylindrical, not on circuit board) and the 2 motor
relays (clockwise and counterclockwise), but never rule out cracked
solder joints because of all the vibration from the motor, and cracks
can be nearly invisible except under 10x magnification and strong
light. Those relays are known to build up carbon on their contacts,
but don't file or sand them. They're standard parts, like Clare or
Omron, and are available from electronics supplies and maybe even the
Radio Shack Industrial catalog
Stanleys weren't cheaply built like Liftmaster or Chamberlain units
and rarely break mechanically, except for 1980s models made with
brittle polyester parts (rarely had optical beams, force adjustment
was through a single large knob on the bottom, and the only chips on
the board were 3 generics, each 14-16 pins).
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