Fridge Runs Excessively

GE Profile Side by Side, about 20 yrs old.

It's maintaining temps but it has to run nearly non stop to do so. Previously when I'd notice long runs it meant the condensor underneath needed a good vacuuming & brushing. This unit always seemed sensitive to that. But I've done that.

Also for background info, one time many years ago there seemed to be an issue with sufficient cooling on the fridge side. (On this machine as with many others, the freezer side runs the show in terms of the thermostat directly controlling the refrigeration system while the fridge side is controlled via a thermostatic bleed air vent.) I found the internal fan to be sluggish and replaced it and the control board myself. Pretty annoying to dismantle the evap area at the back of the freezer -- at one point one must hang the evap on a cable to attend to this.

But I've never messed with the refrigerant circuit itself.

I know it's a sealed system and in theory there is no place for it to leak. But who knows what 20 years of vibration can do. Also, to tell the truth while it's a nice looking appliance, I was never impressed with the build quality as there are refrigerant lines down in back that stick out so much they are barely covered by the fiber board access & vent panel.

This is an R134a machine so I believe it's legal for me to charge it. The full charge is VERY small...far less than even one can like I would use on my car. Obviously there is no service valve.

So the question for you folks is whether it is worth buying a piercing service valve (probably would put it on the service stub on the compressor) and shoot in a TINY, TINY amount of gas and see if that helps before calling a pro. Did I mention TINY?

Ancillary questions:

On HVAC, one can tell a lot about the state of things by measuring temp drop across the evap coil. Is there any equivalent for a fridge?

What should the low side pressure be on a R134a refrigerator be? This may be a completely different figure than for an AC system with the same refrigerant.

Points if you recognize my handle without searching.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid
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I can see trying to add Freon if you can do it yourself for not much money. But calling a pro on a 20 year old unit, IMO, is a waste. If the Freon got out, it must have a leak somewhere. Putting a new evaporator or whatever into a 20 year old basic fridge doesn't make sense to me. And putting in Freon will only delay the inevitable. That assumes the problem is a small leak, could be it's something else.

If it's any consolation, new ones cost about half to run compared to that old one. How much you save depends on your electric rates, but at least $50 a year would be typical. And that's compared to a properly working one. Given that yours is running 24/7, it's probably much worse. If you have a KillaWatt meter you could measure it. The new big side by side I bought a few years ago only uses 90W when running.

Reply to
trader_4

What is the temp balance between freezer and fridge. It there is a huge delta (45-50 degrees) it might not be moving enough air into the fridge side. Be sure those ducts are not iced up.

Reply to
gfretwell

I suppose there is no point to speculations as to what the issue could be besides refrigerant level. Anything from worn out compressor to internal wear & tear debris causing a clog in a line but none if it matters if it is not worth fixing.

You make a good point about NOT calling a pro. Because while they would be much better able to make a diagnosis and COULD (maybe) fix what's wrong, there is probably little they could do that is WORTH doing other than shooting in some gas if that's what it is.

On the other hand, if it's a tiny leak that requires gassing it up a few times a year (or once every twenty) I could live with that.

So I guess that points to proceeding with the experiment.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

Gassing it yourself may not be bad, but to pay a pro to come a few times a year is more than the cost of a new basic fridge.

After 20 years I'd buy a new one. Just did a few months back replacing a 22 year old unit.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

-2? and 38? with the freezer stat on normal mid range position while the fridge damper stat is at coldest.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

Probably though there is a little bit of sentimental value as the unit was one my late mom selected a year or two after Dad passed on for no other reason (the prior Amana was and is still functional) than she wanted it.

Is it safe to presume that the stub line coming directly from the compressor dome (no other connections) represents low side?

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

Make sure the freezer compartment vents are not blocked. i.e. too much food shoved against them, fridge will run forever and not achieve a thing.

Reply to
FrozenNorth

Chet, Have you checked the door seals? What you describe could be caused by leaking seals. Get out a dollar bill and check all around the doors.

Dave M.

Reply to
David L. Martel

I'd suggest you research this, before the wrath of the EPA visits your home.

I had a look at the EPA web site, and it is not clear.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Not clear? That's probably due to your local smog conditions. Now watch 'em pass some new regulations. STG

Reply to
Shade Tree Guy

Due to smog, HO no longer legal to add refrigerant to their own machines. Needs EPA certified tech.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Due to smog, HO no longer legal to add refrigerant to their own machines. Needs EPA certified tech.

Reply to
Tony944

Another vote for door seals. No way refrigerant is low if you're maintaining the freezer at that temperature. Door seals on a unit that old are almost guaranteed to be leaking.

Replacement is neither cheap nor easy, by the way.

Reply to
TimR

An additional complication: I am still researching this but from what I gather, R134a when used in a freezer runs at a partial vacuum on the suction side which introduces the risk of introducing air into the system.

So IF (still a big IF) I was going to do this, probably best to put the self-piercer on while the machine is not running and at positive pressure everywhere. Purge the hose with gas from the can. Apply hose. Open service valve. Maybe loosen hose at the can end to further blow it out with gas from the system. (I do it that way with my car.) With the system not running both the can and the system should be at the same pressure. Run the system. Open the can and introduce just a wee bit of gas. Close everything but leave attached. See if any improvement or if worse.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

I am giving this serious consideration. I do not see any gaps (other than those, on the fridge side) created by the tiny wires for a couple of temperature probes. The one I have on the freezer side is radio connected.

BUT, I am able to slide a paper around under the seal so there may be something to this.

So as soon as I won't need access for a while I am going to tape over the freezer side with plastic packaging tape. The fridge side I can probably only do three sides. (I've removed the probe wires.) Worth a shot.

Or is the fridge side more important on this? The thermostatic door that bleeds freezer air into the fridge does not operate with any pressure; I think it is suction into the freezer side that pulls air in. You don't feel any air at the vent with door open. So maybe if seals are poor it's drawing in outside air to the fridge side and dissipating from the freezer side.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

I consider it unwise for me to give advice to uncertified HO's, on matters that require a certificate.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Why wouldn't there be. For that matter, I'm guessing you can tell something just by seeing how hot the condensing coils are. Maybe with your fingers or an IR thermometer.

Reply to
Micky

Isn't that hilarious? I can dump R134a into the atmosphere by the gallon if it relates to automotive A/C but if I wanted to do something on a machine whose entire charge is less than half of a can you get at Walmart, that would be illegal.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

Barely warm at all. Air coming off them (it's a fan-blown condenser) is hardly any warmer than room air being drawn in.

Reply to
Chet Kincaid

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