I have a wood burning fireplace that I have probably used once in the
past couple of years. Even with the flue and glass door closed, there
is a draft. I think I'm losing quite a bit of heat through the
I don't plan on using this fireplace as a wood-burning fireplace
anymore... Maybe the next owner will want to. I want to insulate the
flue somehow so there is no draft and install an electric fireplace
insert. This must be done in such a way that I can remove the
electric insert when I want to and use it as a wood burning fp.
I had exactly this same problem with the steel wood-burning fireplace
installed by the idiot who owned my house previously. The damn thing
leaked cold air draft thru the box like nobody's business even when the
flue was shut. When we demo'ed our basement and ripped down the false
wall fronting the fireplace, it turned out that they did a significantly
piss-poor job of mortaring the spot where the galvanized-steel chimney
ducting went thru the brick wall. The job was so piss-poor that you
could see daylight where the two met. Might be that you have a similar
That was the least of the installation injustices, but that's another
story for another day.
email@example.com (Sunday4) wrote:
Is one supposed to use 'galvanized' steel flue piping? Could not
the galvanizing vapourize, under certain conditions of heat and
posibly be poisonous? Just a question.
BTW that's what we have done, stuff a bag filled with something
like f.glass insulation or even crushed up newspaper up the 6
inch by 8 inch flue; but remember to remove it if/when you want
to light a fire! We hung a piece of red tape on the fire screen
as a reminder.
I'm working on something better than that but trying to avoid
elaborate chimney top devices with springs that could corrode
etc. Windy here too!
Such a device was shown on 'This Old House' costing about $160 US
installed; a bit costly for my taste.
Maybe something chain operated down the flue pipe? Our flue is
just about straight. Terry.
The most effective way to seal the flue (and still have it work when you
want it to) is with a top-mounted damper. They achieve a much tighter seal
than the conventional throat dampers, and are easier to operate. It may be
a more expensive solution than your considering, but worth it in the long
run considering the impact on your heating bill.
As far as brand, I prefer RMR. The springs are located under the cap, but
above the damper plate. The springs won't freeze shut or be subjected to
the byproducts of burning. To open the damper you release the cable at the
bottom. I recently installed one at my parent's house, with a very
noticeable effect. (By the by, I'm not affiliated with RMR.)
If you want the el-cheapo semi-permanent solution, cut a metal block-off to
size and silicone it to the top of the flue. No more draft. That's what
I've done temporarily to some of my non-functioning fireplaces.
Sorry to follow up my own post. I wanted to add that extreme care has to
be used when blocking off flues from the top. You want to be absolutely
certain that the flue you are blocking is no longer venting, and that
you're blocking off the proper flue. Accidentally sealing your working
furnace flue, etc. rather than a non-functioning fireplace could have
serious, life-threatening consequences.
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